Bullit - 2nd Alternate Slab Start
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 3 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | P1- Unknown P2- Todd Swain & Rich Couchon, with Pete Coren 1976 |
Page Views: | 969 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Robert Hall on Nov 8, 2015 · Updates |
Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Jon Sykes' "The Notches" gives this alternate a 5.8..... You decide ! (and we'll change it if enough override the 5.9)
START: On a slab, with bolts, which is about 200 ft right of the South (Left) Descent Gully, and about 50ft right of "Unknown #1 - 3 bolts on a slab". Above the correct starting slab should be the obvious "Bullit" Overhang. (see photo-s)
...and, yes, I do know that the projectile portion of ammunition is a "bullet", but Bullit is how Ed spelled the name. Perhaps one needs to "Bull" "it"...maybe to start P2 !?
P1 - Climb up the slab. Bolts are widely, but reasonably spaced (PG-13). At the top of the slab make great protected moves up and slightly right to the fixed belay at the far left of the "Bullit" overhang. 100+/- feet 5.8+ / 5.9-
NOTE: Dhane Knakkergaar Comments (2018): "There's a very creaky flake before you clip the first bolt. Don't pull to hard!" (I don't remember this being the case when I did it a feew years ago, R Hall)
P2 - Step left and climb the crack in the left end of the OH (rated 5.6 [?]), continue up the crack and then slightly left on slab to a gear belay (0.75,green to #2, gold, Camalot-sized).
130 +/- ft 5.6 - 5.7
P3 - Scramble left. 30-40 ft
START: On a slab, with bolts, which is about 200 ft right of the South (Left) Descent Gully, and about 50ft right of "Unknown #1 - 3 bolts on a slab". Above the correct starting slab should be the obvious "Bullit" Overhang. (see photo-s)
...and, yes, I do know that the projectile portion of ammunition is a "bullet", but Bullit is how Ed spelled the name. Perhaps one needs to "Bull" "it"...maybe to start P2 !?
P1 - Climb up the slab. Bolts are widely, but reasonably spaced (PG-13). At the top of the slab make great protected moves up and slightly right to the fixed belay at the far left of the "Bullit" overhang. 100+/- feet 5.8+ / 5.9-
NOTE: Dhane Knakkergaar Comments (2018): "There's a very creaky flake before you clip the first bolt. Don't pull to hard!" (I don't remember this being the case when I did it a feew years ago, R Hall)
P2 - Step left and climb the crack in the left end of the OH (rated 5.6 [?]), continue up the crack and then slightly left on slab to a gear belay (0.75,green to #2, gold, Camalot-sized).
130 +/- ft 5.6 - 5.7
P3 - Scramble left. 30-40 ft
4 Comments