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Weird mini bolt thing

Original Post
Doug Foster · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 207

I was climbing the other day and two routes had a few of these mini bolts thrown between a few clips, to reduce the runout. They looked like a mini bolt hole with two wires sticking out, and a place to clip in. I can't find them online. Any ideas?

Zach M · · Summersville, WV · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 0

Glue ins?

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 18,963

Sounds like an IED or a charging station.

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525

copperhead?
rivet?

Luc Ried · · Batesville, AR · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 440

Any chance you could snap a picture? I'm pretty curious about this. I'd assume you'd know if it's a glue in, or other common pro.

caribouman1052 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 5

Hmm... thinking back to the early 90's, there was a company making "removable bolts". They were spring loaded, looked a lot like a ball nut or a Slider. If they were left in place, and decayed to nothing, they might have left some wires sticking out of the hole. They may have been sized for 1/4" holes, lots of bolts back then were that size.

A quarter inch split rawl might leave a couple of spurs sticking out if it was pretty corroded, but I don't think you'd mistake them for wires...

Medic741 · · Des Moines, IA (WTF) · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 265

Was it one of these? Check out the green loopey thing that's visible under the draw

Screenshot of cell block six send

Marc Squiddo · · Mountain View, CA · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 15
BrianWS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 790

Those are removable bolts and have been on these routes for years. They look to be fixed now - my guess is that they were put in to help in the removal and replacement of older hardware. Both routes can be climbed safely without clipping them. You may be better off not relying on them anyways, as you can't assess their condition as easily as the standard bolts/hangers (glueins now, if I remember) that the routes are equipped with.

Doug Foster · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 207

Yes its those green loops on Iniquity and Cell Block Six. Thanks. those were actually the routes we were on. Looks like they are some sort of climb tech removable bolt. Thanks guys. And BrianWS, they still have bolts and hangers with permadraws, although the permas are hard to clip.

BrianWS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 790

Unless I'm mistaken, CB6 has glue-ins, at least higher up on route. The stances are all very comfortable for 5.12, especially with the draws already hanging.

Inequity has expansion bolts + hangers, I think. These stances are also pretty good, but I remember one creepy clip around the flake/corner. The removable bolt here could probably cut the risk of a ledge fall, but a competent belay would also keep you safe without. The climbing and stance there aren't any harder than 5.10, so you shouldn't have any issues if you are working climbs of this grade.

I think both routes sported more bolts when they first went up around 2007ish. Many of the bolts were not crucial, so I think those were pulled when the routes were re-equipped with newer bolts and permies a few years ago.

Doug Foster · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 207

OK. I was only on Iniquity, which did have bolts and hangars, won't get on cb6 until next week. thanks.

Medic741 · · Des Moines, IA (WTF) · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 265

Cool! I'm headed down to the red in t-minus one week and have been just dying for this route for the past few months... dreaming for the send!!! If anyone wants to meet up to climb hard pm me... sorry for the hijack!

BTW... most of my harder sport sends were in Piedra Parada in Patagonia and not listed on mtproj so don't judge the tick list too hard ;)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
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