Indian creek newbie

Ladies and gentlemen,

A buddy of mine is coming through sometime over the next couple of weekends and wants to get on some easy multi pitch in Indian Creek. I myself have never been to the Creek , yes I know I'm s looser. As such I'd appreciate any route recommendations you would be so kind to share with me.

First off is it going to be too hot already? (Don't laugh, newbie remember)

We have doubles and quadruples in cams from 1" to 6"

Prefer easy stuff, up to 5.8, we both have solid crack technique and ten plus years experience. I'm just fat and he hasn't been on real rock since November. ( Again, don't laugh, it hurts my feelings)

Prefer 2-4 pitches but a tall one pitch is ok

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks everyone!

The only thing in Indian Creek that fits those requirements is the South Six-Shooter.

Thanks!!

Starting to get hot in Indian creek, for a better multi pitch option go to the Black Canyon and do Maiden Voyage it is a nice into to the Black at 5.8. Lots of other moderates there such Casual Route, Casually Off Route, Comic Relief, etc.

Thanks, I'll check that out!

First - super psyched for you guys. You'll have a blast.

Weather: Cooler temps than usual. I bet you're good into early June (but that could change quick).

Routes:
There are so many good single pitch routes, I would focus on those.

Many good 5.9s and short 5.10s (if you can hand jam well) are within your reach so I'd say have a go at those. Since you can plug in gear anywhere as long as you have the size, its not as committing in IC as 5.10s in other places would be. 5.8s seem to be rare. Be aware South Six Shooter has an intimidating last few moves (still super worthwhile...those moves probably make it even more worthwhile).

Donnelly Canyon, Battle of the Bulge and Supercrack Buttress have some good options in that range and are a super short hike. Definitely grab a guide book. The $30 (?) will be worth it. "Warm Up" (easy 5.9) on Battle of the Bulge is a great, very short primer to the area. Binou's Crack, Chocolate Corner, and Generic Crack (all Donnelly) make for a nice morning.

Have a great time.

Thanks for the info!

What guide book would you recommend?

I've got David Bloom's book from about 10 years ago -- short route descriptions but quality book with good pics and a lot of routes: amzn.to/27nGmk8

Chad Miller wrote:Thanks for the info! What guide book would you recommend?

We found bloom to be not very helpful beyond identifying the cliffs. By far the most incomplete guide I've ever used. Mountain project app is the way to go. Be sure to download the photos before you go out of WiFi range. Super helpful beta photos, many of the lines are far apart, so the photos really help.

You could do fine with just using Mtn. Project, and I was going to have the same comment- South Six shooter is the only thing that is multi pitch anywhere near that grade, it is 5.7, and like someone said, pretty stiff and committing for the grade. Also like someone said, you can hang your way up a 5.10 and have a blast TRing it. I got really good at aiding there. Have a look at Wall st. in Moab, a couple of classic 5.8's there. We did a 5.8 chimney at Way Rambo that was protected with a thin crack and awesome. Check out Karl Kelley's High on Moab- other multi pitch towers out there- Looking Glass?

Remember that grades in IC are all relative to hand size - i.e. you might be able to climb a bit harder if the crack size fits you.

Search on MP for Indian Creek and click the link that says 'best routes for YOU in this area' and use the built in search tool and you can find what you need pretty quickly...

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