What does your Woody look like???

Any floor paint... Dude, I used Tennis court paint and added a bit of sand grit to it. These are some great ideas for multi use for spaces... Cheers

Has anyone had success in glueing chips/tiny foot holds onto a concrete garage wall? The concrete is old and was put up as part of a shoddy addition. I don't trust drilling anything into it.

I was thinking of trying construction adhesive or super glue.

I used PL400, works fine. If you have a lot of them, try a 2 piece epoxy. No need to use expensive super glue, unless you are putting just a couple. Make sure you wire brush the chips and the wall where the hold is going. It's more about clean substrate.

Peter Franzen wrote:Also, a question for hangboarders: Does anyone know of an iPhone app that can do consecutive timer intervals of different durationss? For example, I'd love to have an app that can do: 15 sec. 30 sec. 15 sec. 30 sec. ...back-to-back. Or a more extensive list of times that automatically count down as each interval finishes, such as: 7 sec 3 sec 7 sec 3 sec 7 sec 3 sec 2 minutes (repeat) I'd love to be able to program an entire workout's worth of intervals and have it just go on its own with no further interaction needed once it has started. Anybody know of something that can do this?

Hey, try "A HIIT interval timer" on Google play or app store. You can make custom reps, custom sets, and custom workouts. They also offer the option to choose the color of the text, so when it says "small 3F pocket" and its purple or something you know it's your last rep.

PS I am renting an apartment, and I have a metolius project board mounted with 8" C clamps and a few other accessories . will post details with pics soon.

Depends on how steep you are building it. And if you do the math, it only takes 2 more studs to make it 16" on center, and you will find it is MUCH stiffer than 24"oc. No real reason unless it is really steep, >45º, to edge block.
And use too many t-nuts! I have 55 LF of walls, and i use 210+ nuts per sheet.

I have both, and 100% like the random pattern mo'betta. Visually the grid looks like...a grid, and how often do you see all the holds on rock in lines?
Also, and i would guess that this is subjective, if just feels like you have more gradation and options with random.
¢.02

Also, if you have not seen this, stack all your plywood in one pile, layout where the studs go (and blocking if you decide to use it) and drill away.

I've gone with random t-nut placement and like it a lot.

has anybody tried doing a grid and then throwing in random t-nuts after?

I put many t-nuts in my woody. Did it in a square pattern every 15 centimeters (around 6 inches apart) and one in the middle, then after I attached the walls to the studs, where there was a stud blocking the t-nut I just drill the stud across the t-nut with a wood bit that fits and doesn´t damage the thread. I don´t drill all the way, just enough so the holds can get tight and only drill deeper in case I´m setting a narrower hold which needs the bolt to go deeper (rare because I have some shorter bolts). It has a pattern but it looks like random since the holes are close and the holds vary in size. Some times with big holds, they will block the usage of the close t-nuts.

Conclusion: the studs are not going to brake if you drill holes for the bolts to fit in.

The reason I chose to put the t-nuts closer is because is a bouldering cave in a small room with various angles. So training compression and short hard moves is better. The down side is that it limits the training in dynamic and long moves.

Conclusion: if your woody is not big, or high, put more holds per sheets. The more the better.

Tips:

-Don´t try to mimic the local climbing gym. Adapt to the space, shape and possibilities you have.

-Also, if you are going to use small hand holds, don´t buy the bolted type, just the screw on ones. ebay.com/itm/climbing-holds…

-Be sure to glue and compress each t-nut, don´t rely on the four sharp fangs they have.

-Don´t put t-nuts close to the edge of plywood and if you do, make sure the holds (resin, rocks, rock type, holds made with rigid materials) don´t over pass the edge of the sheet of plywood, any difference with the next sheet will lose or break the hold. Polyurethane and wood holds are quite tolerant to this issue.
-It is personal but in order of preference in holds, buy (or make) them the like this: resin, real rock or rock feel type, wood and last are the polyurethanes; Specially Don´t buy polyurethane holds that have high coarse texture (if you do buy them, choose smoother ones, 600 or higher sandpaper feeling) since is a home woody the wear of the holds is zero and you will start to hate them and stop climbing not because of muscle fatigue but because of skin wear.

-If you are climbing in your woody to train (not just for fun) it will be more compact (as if more in less) than a climbing gym (no boulder traffic, no people, faster approach, no distractions) which ends in less time and faster improvement if, and only if, you can avoid injuries and keep up the motivation and challenges of climbing alone. I avoid using sharp edge holds (which most of them are the polyurethane ones) to avoid injuries. You also have to plan your routines better so you don´t over climb (especially after you finish the woody). Resist the temptation of using it and rest rest rest (If you are over 30, add another rest).

Glue the T-Nuts? Never heard of that ....

I find that glue gets a little brittle. I have had good luck with both pl400 and just good ol' caulking. The trick is to NOT get it on the threads! Only really necessary if you do not have access to the rear of the panel.

Adam Stackhouse wrote:Glue the T-Nuts? Never heard of that ....

put glue between the t-nut and plywood before you you start torquing

Sanllan wrote:Specially Don´t buy polyurethane holds that have high coarse texture (if you do buy them, choose smoother ones, 600 or higher sandpaper feeling) since is a home woody the wear of the holds is zero and you will start to hate them and stop climbing not because of muscle fatigue but because of skin wear.

All you have to do if a hold is too rough is sand them down a bit with some 120 grit, it takes about 1 minute.

I like the idea of using a flexible drying glue/caulk to help keep the t-nuts from popping loose.

Sanllan wrote: put glue between the t-nut and plywood before you you start torquing

Torquing? Don't you mean before you hammer / screw them in?

Or is there a different type I have not seen.

hammering doesn't necessarily get the t-nut properly aligned in the hole. There's a way you can use a threaded rod and some washers that will keep it aligned as you set it in place.

ViperScale wrote: Torquing? Don't you mean before you hammer / screw them in? Or is there a different type I have not seen.

I do it as Henry says. takes more time but in the long term it is better, also i use a square piece of plywood hand size and a washer on top of it.

you can also dab some glue on the teeth of the T nut, take a thick climbing hold and screw it in. the pressure will sink the T nut, just make sure to give it a few taps so it bites and doesn't spin.

You guys are either incredibly patient, have an incredible amount of free time or simply have never actually done these elaborate methods (glue, alignment tools, etc.).

Grab a BFH (big f$%ing hammer) and smack away. If you use decent plywood, this is the fastest way by a factor of 10. You are going to put in 500+ T-nuts, if it takes 5 minutes for each T-nut, that's 83 hours..

Ray Lovestead wrote:You guys are either incredibly patient, have an incredible amount of free time or simply have never actually done these elaborate methods (glue, alignment tools, etc.). Grab a BFH (big f$%ing hammer) and smack away. If you use decent plywood, this is the fastest way by a factor of 10. You are going to put in 500+ T-nuts, if it takes 5 minutes for each T-nut, that's 83 hours..

I didn't say it was the method I used, I simply said that it is a way to avoid misaligned t-nuts. Truthfully, I tried the threaded rod method for about 30 minutes,sank about 15 t-nuts, and the bashed the rest of them in. I'm sure I'll pay for my sins later, but I got to climb quickly.