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Best all around ice tool

Original Post
Adam Kunis · · Athens · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 38

Looking for ice tools that I can use for AI and WI. Was thinking grivel quantum tech's or petzl quarks. Opinions and suggestions appreciated!

Jack C · · Green River, UT · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 325

I have the DMM apex which I really like. Curve of a nomic but the handle of a quark which makes it good for clearing bulges doing vertical ice but it also plunges relatively well in snow. Really well rounded ice tool imo

Luc-514 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 12,506

The Petzl Quarks are a pretty good all around tool.
I filed down the picks taking as a model the the Cassin X-All Mountain picks (they rock). Also, the Petzl picks last, I find them harder (longer time before needing to sharpen) than the Cassin and BD picks.

Remove the hammer/adze and add the pick weights for pure ice.
I've pretty much gotten rid of the original hammer since they tended to place too much weight on the back of the tool and opted for the CT hammers (discontinued). Petzl seems to have updated their low profile hammer so they may have caught up a bit with the CT ones.
Comfortably led some WI4+ with them.

I've done a few outings with my roommate's X-All Mountain and really enjoyed them, a step up from the Quarks apart from the pick being too soft.

Marty Theriault · · Quebec, QC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 310

don't wast your time... get the X Dream alpine, I've climbed long snow/Wi2 gullies, Super tecky WI6+ Ice and M hard drytool with these! they excel at everything!

Matt Carroll · · Van · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 249

I have the QT's and like em a lot, but I would get the xdream alpines if I were you.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Theriault wrote:don't wast your time... get the X Dream alpine, I've climbed long snow/Wi2 gullies, Super tecky WI6+ Ice and M hard drytool with these! they excel at everything!
+1

I got roasted for saying this on NEice when the X Dreams first came out. It's good to hear a really strong and experienced ice climber have the same opinion. You made my day on Friday the 13th :)
Adam Kunis · · Athens · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 38

Thanks for all the help guys! Now just down between the x dreams and QT's! Really appreciate the info from everyone

Marty Theriault · · Quebec, QC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 310
Adam Kunis wrote: Now just down between the x dreams and QT's! Really appreciate the info from everyone
you realized the QT are discontinued and blades and accessories will soon become hard to find ...
Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492
Adam Kunis wrote:Thanks for all the help guys! Now just down between the x dreams and QT's! Really appreciate the info from everyone
The X-Dream handle is not the sort of piece that one usually associates with plunging into the snowpack on an alpine route.
Marty Theriault · · Quebec, QC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 310
Gunkiemike wrote: The X-Dream handle is not the sort of piece that one usually associates with plunging into the snowpack on an alpine route.
not the best tool to use in "piolet" style but it does get the job done, that new spike on the handle make this tool a lot more all arounder!!!
Kyle Tarry · · Portland, OR · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 528

FYI, I have Grivel Matrix Tech, which I think has very similar geometry to the Quantum (but isn't carbon). The swing is really really nice, I like it more than most other tools except for maybe the Nomic. They would make a good alpine tool (and that is where I primarily use them), except the finger rest (the "horn", Grivel calls it) is pretty fat, so the tool will never plunge well.

For alpine climbing where I am going to be plunging a lot (ie, not a super steep route), I pair one Matrix with a hybrid tool with a sliding finger rest. The Petzl Sum'tec is probably the best known version of these, but I use a Grivel Nepal SA and my climbing partner uses a Grivel Air Tech Evo, both with the grivel sliding rest. Really good combination.

Zac St Jules · · New Hampshire · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 1,188

Quantum techs are great. As Theriault said, they have been discontinued but I dont think this means the picks will be hard to find. You can still find the old old style grivel picks all over the place and they haven't been made for decades.

problem with the quantum tech is that it is B rated and that the clip in point on the bottom of the tool isn't fully rated. i think its only rated to a couple hundred pounds. this is the same problem with the matrix tech which is the same tool but in aluminum instead of carbon.

can't speak to the x dreams. adjustable handles bum me out though.

the dmm apex are cool but they are a bit heavier than some other options.

you might consider the new grivel north machine. its a t rated carbon tool with the same geometry as the quantum tech - its more designed for alpine use. they slimmed down the horn on the bottom for better plunging...

I guess honestly if i were you, id get the matrix tech. you can find them super cheap. they're t rated and you can get spare picks cheap because they've been discontinued.the swing is one of the best ive ever felt. the only real downside for me is the non-fully rated spike...

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5
Zac.St.Jules wrote:can't speak to the x dreams. adjustable handles bum me out though.
Why? Seen one loosen/fail in use?
J TMan · · San Diego · Joined May 2013 · Points: 120

I own a pair of QT and a pair of x dreams- love them both but unless I plan on plunging, I would bring the x dreams no matter the grade.

I did confirm with Liberty mountain that Grivel will not be discontinuing the Monster line of picks.

Aaron Nash · · North Bend, WA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 212

Go swing some and get what feels the best to you. General "rules of thumb" for alpine + water all around tools would be: tools with plungable handles (so not ergo handgrips); a decent spike on the bottom; not radically curved; and weight conscious. Be weary of trying to take the super sexy ergo tools on long alpine routes. Sure they work, but there are better options imo. YMMV however! Both of your starting suggestions (quarks, quantums) are great examples of a "do it all" tool.

Lots of other good suggestions here for tools to swing to get you started, and all will climb well; you just need to find your fit, kind of like a boot. Put some time in and swing them before dropping $$$ on it. A bunch of suggestions from the internet are worth exactly what you paid for them.

All that said, from my own personal experience: check out the Quantum (or Matrix) Tech if you can. I love the swing (slightly head heavy and carbon damping), great pick metal, super light, and work well on both WI and AI. They're "discontinued" and can be had at good prices now. Picks will continue to be manufactured, and last way longer than others.
A few friends of mine use the Cassin X-All Mtn and I've been able to borrow a set a few times. Climbed a super thin smear with them and loved how delicate I was able to place the pick. A nice tool and worth considering, especially at it's price point.

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
Kyle Tarry wrote:The Petzl Sum'tec is probably the best known version of these, but I use a Grivel Nepal SA and my climbing partner uses a Grivel Air Tech Evo, both with the grivel sliding rest. Really good combination.
I like the x light for this. The stock grip plunges excellently, but has somewhat of a pinky rest. You can easily interchange the grip for any of the x all mountains (which I also own).
Adam Kunis · · Athens · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 38

I've had nothing but great experience with my Camp gear so I think I'm going to stick with them. Now down to ergo vs non ergo. Gut is thinking all mntns plus they're cheaper haha. Once again thanks for all the help!

Marty Theriault · · Quebec, QC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 310

I guess it depends on if you're gonna climb wi3 and below or above that.... If you stick to easier stuff go x all but if you plan on doing some steeper stuff ( dosent need to be right now ) get x dreams alpine ....

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 969
Theriault wrote:I guess it depends on if you're gonna climb wi3 and below or above that.... If you stick to easier stuff go x all but if you plan on doing some steeper stuff ( dosent need to be right now ) get x dreams alpine ....
Bingo. X-All for WI3 and easier, X-Dream for WI4 and up!
Craghead · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 75

That's exactly my setup. X-All for easy ice/alpine and X-Dream for harder ice/mixed. Just be careful if you plan on using an X-All to plunge with using the X-dry grip. I just cracked the grip doing this so I am swapping one out for the X-Alp grip if I need to do plunging on the approach to something more technical.

Nick Sweeney · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 969
Craghead wrote:That's exactly my setup. X-All for easy ice/alpine and X-Dream for harder ice/mixed. Just be careful if you plan on using an X-All to plunge with using the X-dry grip. I just cracked the grip doing this so I am swapping one out for the X-Alp grip if I need to do plunging on the approach to something more technical.
Send an email to CAMP, they replaced both of my handles for free!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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