DMM pivot belay vs Mammut smart vs Petzl GriGri2
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There really isn't 1 device to cover everything well. I always have a tube and the smart alpine on my harness. If you're really set on getting only one, get the pivot, as it is the most versatile and user friendly. I've heard it's also a bit smoother taking in slack in guide mode, although not nearly as smooth as a gigi/ovo/Smart |
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eli poss wrote:...If I was purchasing a biner for it now, I'd probably get a sterling falcon.+1 Works well with the Alpine Smart. |
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I have used the Smart for about 2 years now, just discovered another quirk about it. Not a failure mode, but something I think about when I use it. For what it's worth, I would still recommend the Smart (for someone who is competent and learns its quirks/failure modes). I have the smaller diameter version of it and use it with my doubles on long trad routes. I prefer it to an ATC. |
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with a wider biner (petzl williams) the "off slot" will generally still lock on thicker ropes ... |
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Matt Stroebel wrote:I have used the Smart for about 2 years now, just discovered another quirk about it. Not a failure mode, but something I think about when I use it. I use Mammut's biner (Mammut Element Smart HMS) with the double channel, standard rope size Smart. It doesn't let the biner get jammed inside the channel. However, you get different amounts of friction depending on which slot you choose. If I used the left slot (towards the top of the picture) it won't totally lock and will slowly slip under body weight. If I use the right slot, (towards the bottom of the pic) it will lock fully and not slip under body weight. I'm using an Element Velocity 9.8mm rope. For what it's worth, I would still recommend the Smart (for someone who is competent and learns its quirks/failure modes). I have the smaller diameter version of it and use it with my doubles on long trad routes. I prefer it to an ATC.Sorry for the drift, but I purchased that same Element Smart HMS a few years ago and discovered a serious flaw with it after a few months of use. The flanges on the bottom of the autolocking collar are thin enough that they bend outward over time, eventually jamming the gate so that it doesn't close completely. I would caution anyone with that carabiner to examine it closely, although you'll know when it jams open...hopefully not while clipping your BCD! You can see many reports of this failure mode on youtube. |