Mountain Project Logo

DMM pivot belay vs Mammut smart vs Petzl GriGri2

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

There really isn't 1 device to cover everything well. I always have a tube and the smart alpine on my harness. If you're really set on getting only one, get the pivot, as it is the most versatile and user friendly. I've heard it's also a bit smoother taking in slack in guide mode, although not nearly as smooth as a gigi/ovo/Smart

Oh, and for biners to use with the smart, the short answer is any roundstock medium to large HMS biners will work well. I currently use the CAMP Picto (about the size of an attache) which works well, but it would be a lot better if it was a tad bit bigger. IMO the perfect size is somewhere between an attache and a rocklock. If I was purchasing a biner for it now, I'd probably get a sterling falcon.

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,759
eli poss wrote:...If I was purchasing a biner for it now, I'd probably get a sterling falcon.
+1
Works well with the Alpine Smart.
Matt Stroebel · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 115

I have used the Smart for about 2 years now, just discovered another quirk about it. Not a failure mode, but something I think about when I use it.

I use Mammut's biner (Mammut Element Smart HMS) with the double channel, standard rope size Smart. It doesn't let the biner get jammed inside the channel. However, you get different amounts of friction depending on which slot you choose. If I used the left slot (towards the top of the picture) it won't totally lock and will slowly slip under body weight. If I use the right slot, (towards the bottom of the pic) it will lock fully and not slip under body weight. I'm using an Element Velocity 9.8mm rope.



For what it's worth, I would still recommend the Smart (for someone who is competent and learns its quirks/failure modes). I have the smaller diameter version of it and use it with my doubles on long trad routes. I prefer it to an ATC.
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

with a wider biner (petzl williams) the "off slot" will generally still lock on thicker ropes ...

however the with thinner ropes it might not always lock ... also theres more chance of the biner rotating abit and getting the gate caught in the device when using the "off slot" if theres no anti crossload feature

as said the smart is VERY sensitive to the biner ... even when using a rocklock vs a williams many folks can feel the difference with how well it feeds and raps (in asssited mode) with thicker ropes

like a grigri its also pretty sensitive to thick and stiff ropes (as they age) ... ~10mm maxims feeds like shiet, mammuts are OK till they get stiff and fuzzy ... sterling, edelrids,tendons and beals are generally fine

it works best with ropes that are soft and supple ... or thinner ...

every device has its ups and downs ...

but some of the issues with the alpine smart are absolute show stoppers if you dont know how to deal with em

in at least one case, if you dont know how to clear the jam, you may need to take yr climber off belay ...

mountainproject.com/v/mammu…

;)

ebmudder · · Bronx, NY · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 55
Matt Stroebel wrote:I have used the Smart for about 2 years now, just discovered another quirk about it. Not a failure mode, but something I think about when I use it. I use Mammut's biner (Mammut Element Smart HMS) with the double channel, standard rope size Smart. It doesn't let the biner get jammed inside the channel. However, you get different amounts of friction depending on which slot you choose. If I used the left slot (towards the top of the picture) it won't totally lock and will slowly slip under body weight. If I use the right slot, (towards the bottom of the pic) it will lock fully and not slip under body weight. I'm using an Element Velocity 9.8mm rope. For what it's worth, I would still recommend the Smart (for someone who is competent and learns its quirks/failure modes). I have the smaller diameter version of it and use it with my doubles on long trad routes. I prefer it to an ATC.
Sorry for the drift, but I purchased that same Element Smart HMS a few years ago and discovered a serious flaw with it after a few months of use. The flanges on the bottom of the autolocking collar are thin enough that they bend outward over time, eventually jamming the gate so that it doesn't close completely. I would caution anyone with that carabiner to examine it closely, although you'll know when it jams open...hopefully not while clipping your BCD! You can see many reports of this failure mode on youtube.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "DMM pivot belay vs Mammut smart vs Petzl GriGri2"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.