Static Rope Selection for Top Rope Anchors

Thought I'd tap the knowledge and experience of the MP forums:

Looking for a static rope for TR anchor building. First things first, would something like the http://www.sterlingrope.com/c/climbing_static-low-stretch-ropes_9mm-safetypro 9 mm SafetyPro be a decent option? There are larger diameter options as well; I imagine those might be a bit more durable - the classic weight vs. durability discussion.

However, a more interesting topic that came up in my research was the EN 1891 Type A and Type B certifications. Any thoughts on A versus B in the context of static rope anchor building applications?

For example, the 9 mm SafetyPro is Type B while the 10 mm SafetyPro is Type A. Not only does the durability of a larger diameter rope come into play, the strength certification is (seemingly) significant enough to warrant different classifications. Is this enough to justify going with one over the other? Are both strong enough that A versus B really isn't much of an issue?

Thanks for any feedback!

I use Mammut 9mm static - works just fine.

You can go as large a diameter you want for safety and robustness, but the consequence is weight, handling/packing, and ease of knots.

When the approach is really short, I use my 11mm static line. It's virtually indestructible.

If it's a longer hike in, I like my 8mm cord. It's light and easy to pack. But I always bring some nylon sheaths for a little extra security.

RMS said " But I always bring some nylon sheaths for a little extra security."

Interesting because I just had an all nylon static rope core shot in 4 places when working a hard route TR self belay in Jtree.

After researching and talking with rope vendors I concluded that a nylon sheath is less abrasion resistant and more cut prone than a polyester sheath with a static rope.

I am putting in an order soon for a Bluewater static rope with a polyester sheath - they have a wide variety of types. We'll see how that holds up.

For anchor building less important than for self belaying TR but I would think the same principles apply since the anchor static rope will often hang down over potential edges.

I wouldn't worry too much about durability because static ropes usually have a polyester sheath which is very resistant to abrasion. For TRing anywhere from 8mm to 9.5mm is good, unless you're cliff edge is razor sharp. If you're going to rapping on it (for example, if there is a short 4th class section from the edge of the cliff to the anchor) make sure it is thick enough to use with your belay device.

For padding sharp edges, an article of clothing will work. Another option is to get some tubular webbing and put the rope inside the webbing, kind of like having an extra sheath.

I'd not worry about the Type A vs Type B classification for anchor building.

Type B has a min strength of 18kN, and is tested with a 80kg weight (for the fall tests). Type A has a min strength of 22kN and is tested with a 100kg weight.

This isn't speaking directly to the original post but I thought I'd ask anyway: does everyone prefer static lines over dynamic for TR self belay?

David Kolcinski wrote:This isn't speaking directly to the original post but I thought I'd ask anyway: does everyone prefer static lines over dynamic for TR self belay?

OP asked about cord to build anchors up top, not a cord to TR or TR solo on.

Should be a non-issue, use whatever you have handy. I cut up retired static lines that I'd used for hauling or fixed lines and use that. I've used pieces of retired dynamic ropes for the same purpose (there is so little rope involved, the dynamic aspect isn't really a drawback or problem)

I've also TR soloed literally hundreds of pitches in JT and never had any core shots or rope damage, using retired 10mm or 10.2 lead lines. Maxim 1-over-1 weave "twill pattern" sheathed ropes have been very, very durable for me and handle great. So I have to wonder what these folks are doing to core-shot their ropes all over the place. Sounds like poor rigging and/or poor choice of routes to me.

BigFeet wrote:I use Mammut 9mm static - works just fine. You can go as large a diameter you want for safety and robustness, but the consequence is weight, handling/packing, and ease of knots.

Static or dynamic for short/modest anchoring lengths, static if long. Make it beefy (10mm) for longevity. It's not like you'll be carrying 50m of it.

Off-topic: here's an excellent Blue Water static rope, their 10mm Big Wall for TR solo. Poly sheath is the ticket.

I usually use 7 or 8 mm static cord. Haven't died so far.

David Kolcinski wrote:This isn't speaking directly to the original post but I thought I'd ask anyway: does everyone prefer static lines over dynamic for TR self belay?

I don't know much about the EN certifications, however, I do know that you do need to be a bit careful about what you get. I made the mistake of buying a BlueWater AssaultLine static, with the intention of using it for TR solo, canyoneering, and static line for TR anchors. However, what I failed to do was realize exactly how thick 7/16th rope is (11.4 mm!) and how stiff it is.

Stay away from anything marketed as a rescue or work-type rope, as those tend to be thick and heavy. I hated the way the 11.4 handled. At work, we have some 9.5 mm static (which I think is from Sterling), and it handles beautifully. So supple, so soft!

From an anchor perspective, you want to make sure that you know what the weakest link in each leg of the anchor is, and you definitely want to control that. Luckily, if you're on TR, you won't see many high loads (hopefully, or you're doing something drastically wrong). We're already comfortable with 1 inch tubular webbing (17-18 kN) and 7 mm cord (I think mine is rated around 15-18 kN) for our anchors, so if what other people are saying is correct, either your Type A or Type B lines are fine (i.e. no need to double up two independent strands).

My suggestion is to get whatever is properly rated, and makes your back (for carrying the darned thing) and wallet (for buying the darned thing) happy! Also, if you can get your hands on the rope before you buy it, try tying a couple knots in it, and seeing how much you like tying big knots in it (particularly for your master point). There's no point in wasting money on a rope that's just going to give your fingers a hard time.