All Locations > Utah > Southeast Utah > Sand Flats > Rhino's Horn

Fifteen Minutes of Shame

Name: Fifteen Minutes of Shame
Rating: 1.8

5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13

Routes in The Rhino's Horn

	Fifteen Minutes of Shame T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
	Regular Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

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Type:	Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade III
FA:	Ben Kiessel (solo), Brad Brandewie belayed on the first pitch at a earlier date.
Page Views:	1,787 total · 8/month
Shared By:	Ben Kiessel on May 8, 2006
Admins:	slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

The east side of the Rhino's Horn looks like a giant upside down letter "Y". Fifteen minutes of Shame starts on the left leg of the "Y".

Pitch 1: 20' of clean finger crack leads to a small roof and a short section of bad rock. Continue up a slabby dihedral to the anchors. I climbed this at 5.9 C1 but it goes free at 5.10+, the crux of which will be the small roof at the beginning. (100')

Pitch 2: Climb up broken cracks past 2 bolts to a big roof/overhang. Wiggle and squirm over the lip. Once over the lip, cut left onto the slab then back right to avoid a super thin crack. Easy climbing leads to some fun stemming and cool rock to get on the summit. I also climbed this pitch at 5.9 C1 and it too goes free at about 5.10+, with the crux getting up to and over the roof. (100')

Location

The route is on the east side of the tower and starts from the saddle between the tower and the cliff. Looking at the tower from this saddle the route starts on the far left crack system. I rappelled the route, using the anchors of the "regular route". If you do this be sure to extend the anchors on the top so you will be able to pull the rope, also be prepared to swing back into the belay of pitch 1.

Protection

I had doubles of everything up to a #3 Camalot, one 3.5, and 4, a set of stoppers. You could probably place a #4 Big Bro on pitch 2 coming over the roof but I did not have one and was fine.