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Are these useful as climbing bolts?

Original Post
csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Box says they're 1/2"x3"

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20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
csproul wrote:Box says they're 1/2"x3"
No. Total crap. Those are Red Heads that seem to be Home Depot's flagship China bolt.
Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
DjImprov wrote: Here's a link to the full PDF Https://google.com/url?sa=t…
What's the point of posting information about a redhead trubolt? One look at the picture shows that they obviously aren't redhead trubolts (They actually aren't redheads at all, but if they were the closest thing would be the dynabolt).

These are just a cheap no-name brand sleeve anchor and shouldn't be used for climbing purposes, they are nice however to use while bolting if you need something that is easily removable for keeping you into the wall or figuring out clipping locations (however, make sure you remove the second smaller sleeve portion or they won't be easy to remove).
Micah Klesick · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 3,971
kennoyce wrote: What's the point of posting information about a redhead trubolt? One look at the picture shows that they obviously aren't redhead trubolts (They actually aren't redheads at all, but if they were the closest thing would be the dynabolt). These are just a cheap no-name brand sleeve anchor and shouldn't be used for climbing purposes, they are nice however to use while bolting if you need something that is easily removable for keeping you into the wall or figuring out clipping locations (however, make sure you remove the second smaller sleeve portion or they won't be easy to remove).
Yea. I have a few boxes of these just for that reason. Once the route is cleaned and bolt locations are confirmed, I replace them with glue ins.
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
kennoyce wrote: What's the point of posting information about a redhead trubolt? One look at the picture shows that they obviously aren't redhead trubolts (They actually aren't redheads at all, but if they were the closest thing would be the dynabolt). These are just a cheap no-name brand sleeve anchor and shouldn't be used for climbing purposes, they are nice however to use while bolting if you need something that is easily removable for keeping you into the wall or figuring out clipping locations (however, make sure you remove the second smaller sleeve portion or they won't be easy to remove).
You're right, they do look slightly different than the Dynabolt on second look. There's a lot of crap out there that's not suitable for climbing.
csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Just an FYI, the box they are in, which may or may not actually belong to the bolts themselves, says they are Simpson Strong-Tie Sleeve All sleeve anchors 1/2"x3" . I have no intention of using them for anything but was going to donate them to someone if they were deemed suitable for climbing purposes.

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

There are a lot of those in zion. They seem to have the worst corrosion issues.giving them a 10yr life span seems about right. Having removed many from the hole the corrosion is mostly superficial. Althoigh in some cases it can be agressive. I have whipped on them. In 1/2 by 3in I don't have a problem with them. Some people use bolts like these, the red heads exclusively for new routing. I am nether condeming nor condoning the use of this bolt.

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,648
csproul wrote:Just an FYI, the box they are in, which may or may not actually belong to the bolts themselves, says they are Simpson Strong-Tie Sleeve All sleeve anchors 1/2"x3" . I have no intention of using them for anything but was going to donate them to someone if they were deemed suitable for climbing purposes.
Based on the pictures it does look like they are the Simpson Strong-Tie Sleeve All. Again, really shouldn't be used for climbing (though I'm not saying that they aren't ever used for climbing).
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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