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> Pinhead Wall
Anna's Route
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 2 from 3
votes
Routes in Pinhead Wall
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'11 Is Out '12 Is In. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Anna's Route S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Arterial Flow S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Critics Choice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Energy Crisis T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Face Of A Dictator S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fatmando S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gearhead T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Go Speed Racer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Gray Matter S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Grecian Corner S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Griffy's Wild Ride S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Hairy Interlude T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Just For Men S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Needle Noggin S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pinelope Cruise S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Pinhead Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shelf Life S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Unfinished Sympathy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Zerbina S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zippy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Unknown Equipped By Ray Ringle |
| Page Views: | 1,069 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | jbak x on Dec 7, 2015 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Ray says he drilled this line about 10 years ago for a girl named Anna who wanted to do an FA. Then she abandoned the effort. Ray never red-pointed it either, so it sat as an open project. It's hard to believe it would sit for long because it is a nice-looking line and there are zillions of climbers in the country that could cruise it. In fact I saw a local flash it pretty easily yesterday (may 2016). So I assume the FA is unknown.
I normally like routes that are at least slightly overhung. This one seems dead vertical but I like it anyway because it has an unusual combination of good handholds but marginal footholds. How is that possible ? Because the handholds are mostly side-pulls and underclings so they don't turn into good footholds as you climb past them.
Most of the route is about 5.11 but there is a definite, height-intensive, crux after the fourth bolt. Climbers who are 6'6" might think it is 5.11d. Climbers who are 5'2" will likely think 12c. If you are my height (5'10") the crux is very pretty if you do it right, and 5.12 seems right on.
I normally like routes that are at least slightly overhung. This one seems dead vertical but I like it anyway because it has an unusual combination of good handholds but marginal footholds. How is that possible ? Because the handholds are mostly side-pulls and underclings so they don't turn into good footholds as you climb past them.
Most of the route is about 5.11 but there is a definite, height-intensive, crux after the fourth bolt. Climbers who are 6'6" might think it is 5.11d. Climbers who are 5'2" will likely think 12c. If you are my height (5'10") the crux is very pretty if you do it right, and 5.12 seems right on.
Location
Located between Gray Matter and Arterial Flow. The former is to the left; the latter is to the right. Anna's Route ascends orange rock with unique in-cut holds.
Photos
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