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Piece Of Cake (submitted as Almost Certain (AC))
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in V-Mountain aka V Rock
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Arete Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Assured Arete T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Chasin Jason T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Consolation Prize T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crappy Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Definitely Certain (DC) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Doubtless Diehedral T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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First Aid T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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LOW (Left Offwidth) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Memory Lane T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Not Your Cup of Certain Tea T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Piece Of Cake (submitted as Almost Certain (AC)) T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rotten Crotch T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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ROW (Right OffWidth) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Uncertainty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown 10+ T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown 5.9 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
| FA: | Joel Schiavone, 1991 |
| Page Views: | 1,467 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse Morehouse on Oct 19, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a super finger crack with some of everything on it. It shares anchors with the bolted route, Definitely Certain, on the uphill side of the AC/DC Arete.
Lieback to straight in to a cool scoop and roof. There are a few rests.
Get great locks over the roof, to insecure fingers then straight in again and finally some more featured climbing to chains.
Throughout the route you are mainly jamming the crack with fingers and intermittently using the crack for feet. Some great foot features make this less sustained than a crack of similar size might be at the Creek.
Lieback to straight in to a cool scoop and roof. There are a few rests.
Get great locks over the roof, to insecure fingers then straight in again and finally some more featured climbing to chains.
Throughout the route you are mainly jamming the crack with fingers and intermittently using the crack for feet. Some great foot features make this less sustained than a crack of similar size might be at the Creek.
Location
This is on the uphill side of the obvious arete you encounter as you first start climbing the talus on the left side of the V. You need to scramble up one of the unappealing little starts to get to the crack proper which is the thin, clean one that starts with a lieback. This is the leftmost crack closest to the arete. I would recommend the middle of the 3 approach cracks.
Protection
Lots of finger-sized cams, heavy on 0.4-0.5 camalots. 1-2 each, 0.75 to 1, and maybe a #2. Bring one 3.5 or so with a long sling for the start if you choose the middle of the 3 possible starts - it is really the best option.
Nuts may be helpful exiting the alcove.
You need a 70m rope for this climb. The anchors are chains with biners and are shared with DC, the bolted arete.
Nuts may be helpful exiting the alcove.
You need a 70m rope for this climb. The anchors are chains with biners and are shared with DC, the bolted arete.
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