TR after leader

Ted Pinson wrote:any decently bolted sport route is going to be setup so that the leader can clip 2 draws and lower

This is just so wrong.

Jason Todd wrote:Can anyone cite an actual, not theoretical, example of where two draws with opposite and opposed rope end carabiners came unclipped and caused the fall of a top roped climber?

When I was first getting into climbing several years back I personally experienced having one of the draws open and the rope running through only on of the anchor points. I didn't think much of it back then as I knew little of anchor mechanics and had trust in the friend who has taking me climbing. Now after formal training and several years of climbing I personally prefer having at least one locker in the system for TR; with that being said I rarely TR any more.

Caleb isnt that an example of when the anchor worked? Thats why we have two draws.

James Willis wrote:Caleb isnt that an example of when the anchor worked? Thats why we have two draws.

Well, the system was no longer backed up, and part of it failed while not even being under load. You could say it worked had the anchor been loaded and the one draw failed; however the rope was unclipped after some untangling of the rope and properly orientating it. I should've described the situation more coherently. I personally believe that you should use at least one locker in any anchor system. Even one alpine routes I believe the additional weight is worth the peace of mind.

bearbreeder wrote: lets not forget that a little MPing T ROPAH can simply be a little snarky troll on a post, contributing nutting ... cause he dun climb anyways ;)

Just cause nobody believes your little hearsay story about anchor draws coming unclipped doesnt mean you get to make more shit up. Sure, keeping the n00bs on their toes is a fine skill you possess but being honest to the OP and just saying "YES its fine" couldnt hurt either.

;)

James Willis wrote:Caleb isnt that an example of when the anchor worked? Thats why we have two draws.

Especially if you consider the amount of giant falls taken on one non-locking biner daily at the crag.

T Roper wrote: Just cause nobody believes your little hearsay story about anchor draws coming unclipped doesnt mean you get to make more shit up. Sure, keeping the n00bs on their toes is a fine skill you possess but being honest to the OP and just saying "YES its fine" couldnt hurt either. ;)

Awww poor T ROPU TOFUer ...

Cant even give decent "advice" .... Notice you only posted in this thread for some snarky attacks?

So i guess for you two draws is ALWAYS fine ... Regardless of the situation

Of you actually climbed youd know thats not the case

;)