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Best places on Mt Lemmon to practice easy lead climbs?

Original Post
Noa · · Tucson, Az · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

Can anyone think of a place with lots of sport 5.8 ish climbs with good protection and clean falls? Also good for fall/winter climbing?

Steven Groetken · · Durango, CO · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 390

It's been a few years, but I remember that munchkin land and ridge line had a few. Also check out the golden egg. One of my favorite 5.8s I've ever done. Do yourself a huge favor and pick up a copy of the the new "Squeezing the Lemmon" guidebook by EFR.

RyanJohnson · · Tucson, Arizona · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 396

Check out Gumby Wall and Ann Bay Lee Wall both on the Barnum Rock formation.

D Graham · · Washington, DC · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 972
Hendrixson · · Littleton, CO · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 3,290

I would avoid Ridgeline as it has been the site of numerous accidents in the past. The climbing is nice enough but the bolts are a bit spaced by modern standards. In general I would seek out areas or routes bolted within the last ten years.

Outcroppings
Gumby Wall
The Havens

These areas are rather high on the mountain but see plenty of sun. They will be nice in the fall but too cold in the winter.

Clean falls occur when the rock below you is at least vertical and has few features. Rather counter-intuitively harder sport climbs tend to be safer. Wall of the Marching Munchkins is a good place to practice falling as the walls are clean and vertical. In the past I've used Blinded by the Light for practice falls as well. Start with small and work up to bigger falls.

Sam Thompson · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 60

As others said, Gumby Wall is good. I was actually there this last weekend, but with the high winds it was already feeling a little chilly even this early in the year. Boot Hill, near Prison Camp, has a lot of 5.7-5.9 sport routes that are lower on the mountain.

Noa · · Tucson, Az · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

I forgot to click the "notify me" when receiving messages button when I posted this question, so I thought I didn't get any replies. Woops. Thanks for all the recommendations, this is pretty much exactly what I was looking for.

Eric Sophiea · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 232

There's a new place developed recently call Marilyn's Mansion. It's nearby to The Havens. It's got a lot of moderates with big holds and is generously bolted.

J Hawl · · Lordsburg, NM · Joined May 2015 · Points: 10

How do you get to Marilyn's Mansion?

Jake Kennedy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0

Hey everyone, looks like I will be in Tucson tomorrow and free to climb after around 11am-ish. Would love to get out on some moderates around Mt. Lemmon. Anyone local and interested?

Cheers,
Jake

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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