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Daggett Rock Anchor Bolts

Original Post
Tim FromMaine · · Maine->Colorado · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 11

Dear Daggett Rock Retro Bolter,
I have recently been informed of your actions and it saddens me. There are no climbs on this rock that require anchor bolts. Creative rigging allows top roping on all possible routes and leaders should accept the "leap of faith" as part of the experience. I request you remove your hardware or it will be removed. You have until August 1st. Kind Regards.

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

Are trees currently being used at top rope anchors? Is it primarly a top rope area or a lead area?

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

Leap of faith? Creative rigging? Generally speaking adding anchors to a top rope area isn't viewed as "retro bolting" but rather a service and an act of sustainability. Curious if you could provide more details

Ian Dorko · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 110

Daggett rock isn't exactly a "toprope area".
It's the largest glacial erratic in Maine (big boulder transported by a glacier).

mountainproject.com/v/dagge…

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

looks pretty damn short to have bolts on top...

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

Bolts on a boulder.. Now that is quite comical!

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

why wait till Aug 1st to clean them up. sooner the better. get em before people get lazy and used to haveing bolts on a pebble. soon they will want bolts on every pebble......

Tylerpratt · · Litchfield, Connecticut · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 40
Max Forbes wrote:Leap of faith? Creative rigging? Generally speaking adding anchors to a top rope area isn't viewed as "retro bolting" but rather a service and an act of sustainability. Curious if you could provide more details
I kind of sort of thought the same thing... until I looked at the boulder. Its like 10 fucking feet tall??
Gilman Coryell · · Mount Vernon, ME · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

Sad to hear that Daggett got drilled.

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,362
Nick Goldsmith wrote: SOON they will want bolts on every pebble......
This isn't exactly a new phenomenon. Some pebbles are massive and have had bolts on top of them for 50+ years
Tylerpratt · · Litchfield, Connecticut · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 40
Mike Brady wrote: This isn't exactly a new phenomenon. Some pebbles are massive and have had bolts on top of them for 50+ years
Cannibal crag.
M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

A couple of bolts over the top and out of sight on a huge boulder are probably less destructive than major landing construction or dragging piles of pads around, also most of the time probably less likely to cause access issues than bad injuries resulting from a big ground fall. The validity of TR anchors on big boulders is really situational IMO. No comment on Dagget Rock, as I haven't been to it

Nick Goldsmith · · Pomfret VT · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 440

In the photo it looks all of 10ft tall.....

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090
Nick Goldsmith wrote:In the photo it looks all of 10ft tall.....
It is known as "Maine's Largest Glacial Erratic" (I kind of doubt it is) and is listed as 25' tall
M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
M Sprague wrote: It is known as "Maine's Largest Glacial Erratic" (I kind of doubt it is) and is listed as 25' tall
I've certainly seen plenty of 20-30' boulders with anchors on top.

TimfromMaine- how do you feel about the giant scar on the earth AKA Vail ski resort? Have all of those ski lifts and paths of cleared trees made CO a better place?
Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330

I visit Daggett regularly during the summer with my kids, have soloed the tall side (maybe 15' tall), and have played around on the shorter sides a ton, and I can tell you this stone does not receive enough traffic (let alone climbers!) to warrant TR bolts. Lame.

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090
mainetrailfinder.com/trails… It looks like at least the trail is owned by The Phillips Historical Society, so that would be another reason not to put bolts on it.

It does appear more than 15 feet tall, judging by this photo from the above site:
M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

More climbing photos here: topout.org/guide/DaggettRock

Chris Duca · · Dixfield, ME · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 2,330

OK, maybe more like 20', but its location on the Philips Historical Society trumps (no pun intended!) all.

Michael Brady · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 1,362

I've been losing a lot of sleep and this small rain cloud has been following me around since I heard about the bolts on top of Daggett rock. Can someone please do something about this travesty.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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