La Sportiva Pythons equivalent??

reboot wrote: The easy stuff is lower angle (like you photos), the harder stuff can be very close to vertical. Regardless, if you are smearing, why are you using Katana lace or whatever else "stiff" sole shoes then? If you are taking advantage of a feature, then more force applied to that feature gives you better friction than a more even distribution of force over a larger area of the rock. Using the ball of the foot then becomes a detriment. Of course if you've actually climbed hard slabs you'd know.

All the photos i posted are SMEARAble .... Your the on claiming they cant be smeared with the ball of the foot

Some can also be edged with modern aggressive shoes, but many folks dont climb em that way ... Especially with "crap" shoes

Slab feature

Not too easy to edge

Big toe alone doesnt have the best contact

Get moah rubber on there an drop that heel !!!

I assume you already know this being thr awwwsum 5.13+ slab climber you are ...

But for others there TWO main points the catch the smear on tiny features .... The notch behind the toes, and right at the ball of the foot .... Not the toe itself

My favortite slab shoes are teneya oasi and miuras resolved with C4

However on hot days my 4th resole katanas (softened up )a bit less slick as xs edge deforms a bit less when its HAWT

;)

bearbreeder wrote: I assume you already know this being thr awwwsum 5.13+ slab climber you are

I know how to climb them...Trust me, you're not getting up a 5.13+ slab w/ your method.

Want some proof that you provided yourself? Remember the 5.13c slab photo you provided yourself upthread:

bearbreeder wrote:one of our locals sending one of the harder slab routes up here

The hilarity of your post here is the climber is in a freaking pair of Testarossa. Them downturned shoes w/ CONCAVE soles must be really good at placing the BALL of the foot on the hold...

good god, for such a short thread, it's a shitturd. Bear, you are like a librarian with your massive catalog of manufacturer instructions, obscure test results, and whatever. When you're posting stuff like that, you're an awesome resource for the community; top of the heap, really.

But dude, when you're just ranting or arguing or a lot of time just giving an opinion, it comes across as petulant noise and helps make this site shitty.

reboot wrote: I know how to climb them...Trust me, you're not getting up a 5.13+ slab w/ your method. Want some proof that you provided yourself? Remember the 5.13c slab photo you provided yourself upthread: The hilarity of your post here is the climber is in a freaking pair of Testarossa. Them downturned shoes w/ CONCAVE soles must be really good at placing the BALL of the foot on the hold...

Oh dear

All of MY photos are smearable ...

Thats a photo fron gripped mag ...

But then you said quite clearly that ALL my photos werent smearable there ... Hmmmmm

Its all JUGS i tell you !!!

You should be able to solo all thosr JUG slabs even in yr little limp shoes

Brian Abram wrote:good god, for such a short thread, it's a shitturd. Bear, you are like a librarian with your massive catalog of manufacturer instructions, obscure test results, and whatever. When you're posting stuff like that, you're an awesome resource for the community; top of the heap, really. But dude, when you're just ranting or arguing or a lot of time just giving an opinion, it comes across as petulant noise and helps make this site shitty.

Said the little kettle calling the pot black !!!

Hahaha

;)

Do Bearbreeder and Reboot both have autism?

Can't be, it doesn't appear they're old enough to have been vaccinated yet.

If one was to judge from posting history it would be the bearboy from SQUAMISH who fights with someone new at least once a month, usually over one comment which he twists around to mean something that wasn't meant or implied.

One could say "on the spectrum" for sure.

T Roper wrote:If one was to judge from posting history it would be the bearboy from SQUAMISH who fights with someone new at least once a month, usually over one comment which he twists around to mean something that wasn't meant or implied. One could say "on the spectrum" for sure.

This from the guy whose every comment is SNARK

Ive actually never seen a single one of your post to even pretend to help someone

Hahahaha

;)

Exhaustive scientific research has provence there is an direct correlation between internet expertise and celibacy.

Ray Pinpillage wrote:Exhaustive scientific research has provence there is an direct correlation between internet expertise and celibacy.

Awwwe little ray pinprick ...

Still mad about em 18650 headlamps?

;)

C'mon, y'all know how the Canucks like to get sauced up on Sundays. It's just like Bill-Joe and Mavis arguing about how to cook the possum...

Ray Pinpillage wrote:Exhaustive scientific research has provence there is an direct correlation between and celibacy.

I figured this correlation would have to come up, it probably goes along with lack of climbing anywhere besides the home crag as well.

T Roper wrote: I figured this correlation would have to come up, it probably goes along with lack of climbing anywhere besides the home crag as well.

Don't take this as disagreement, you're right Bear and Reboot are douchebags but if I lived in Squamish I wouldn't travel until ice season.

Bill Kirby wrote: Don't take this as disagreement, you're right douchebags but if I lived in Squamish I wouldn't travel until ice season.

you call me douchebags? ;)

T Roper wrote: you call me douchebags? ;)

Haha.. Fixed it

Andy...Try a pair of Five Ten moccs.Size down aggressively and they should work I have read a lot of reviews on them in addition to doing the majority of my climbing career in them. A lot of people complain about them on their edging capability which is totally false if you have moderately strong feet which most of us do Ive stood on dime edge sized holds successfully on overhanging limestone in Spearfish Canyon. Theyre plenty soft and a very powerful shoe the only place Ive had an issue is on super warm days when your feet really sweat heel hooking can be a bit of a problem other than that theyre every bit as good if not better than the pythons and cobras that sportiva makes. And theyre made with C4 Stealth and real leather not this new aged composite junk. It continues to be one of 5.10's best selling shoes because it simply works.. its design has never been changed since the 80's and they've never discontinued/revived them like many of their other shoes. If theyre good enough for Dean Potter, Lynn Hill Steph Davis and countless other power house pros theyre good enough for you! :)

Bill Kirby wrote: Don't take this as disagreement, you're right Bear and Reboot are douchebags but if I lived in Squamish I wouldn't travel until ice season.

I live 10 minutes from a climbing destination, I'd rather some variety. The same old shit is pretty one dimensional...like posting pictures of your shoe collection and regurgitating someone else's data.

Ray Pinpillage wrote: I live 10 minutes from a climbing destination, I'd rather some variety. The same old shit is pretty one dimensional...like posting pictures of your shoe collection and regurgitating someone else's data.

live "10 min away" and you dont even get out and climb, you intranet "expert" whinner? still waiting for those night climbing pics ...

HAHAHA

a lazy "squamish" day ...

Partner with alpinelite 18

;)

Jtradshaw wrote:Andy...Try a pair of Five Ten moccs.Size down aggressively and they should work I have read a lot of reviews on them in addition to doing the majority of my climbing career in them. A lot of people complain about them on their edging capability which is totally false if you have moderately strong feet which most of us do Ive stood on dime edge sized holds successfully on overhanging limestone in Spearfish Canyon. Theyre plenty soft and a very powerful shoe the only place Ive had an issue is on super warm days when your feet really sweat heel hooking can be a bit of a problem other than that theyre every bit as good if not better than the pythons and cobras that sportiva makes. And theyre made with C4 Stealth and real leather not this new aged composite junk. It continues to be one of 5.10's best selling shoes because it simply works.. its design has never been changed since the 80's and they've never discontinued/revived them like many of their other shoes. If theyre good enough for Dean Potter, Lynn Hill Steph Davis and countless other power house pros theyre good enough for you! :)

Super foot dependent. I love mocs for an easy all day shoe and for hand sized cracks. I cannot heel hook in them even on cold days... the heel just slips right off no matter what and their edging power (for me) is super limited on overhanging face.
That being said, I have climbed up to v6 and 12a in them, but the send rate is route specific at those grades.
EDIT to add: I downsize 2.5 sizes from street shoe for the mocs to account for the ridiculous amount they stretch.

simplyput wrote: Super foot dependent. I love mocs for an easy all day shoe and for hand sized cracks. I cannot heel hook in them even on cold days... the heel just slips right off no matter what and their edging power (for me) is super limited on overhanging face. That being said, I have climbed up to v6 and 12a in them, but the send rate is route specific at those grades. EDIT to add: I downsize 2.5 sizes from street shoe for the mocs to account for the ridiculous amount they stretch.

You are correct on the downsizing and theyre painful during the break in period im very familiar with this but they fit like a glove afterwards...I also agree on foot dependence like I said...if you have strong feet edging isn't an issue totally not slamming anyone just like with any other shoe it depends on the climber ive seen a guy climb 13+ in a pair of 5.10 coyotes which are another excellent shoe that is no longer made... Ive seen kids my age go out and buy a pair of Testarossas and cant even keep up at the 5.11 grade. I guess its a preference thing but again if you have strong feet the Moccs will never fail you the hardest route ive ever climbed was on severely overhanging limestone rated at 5.12d. My Testarossas gave me problems and due to the sustained nature pain became an issue I came down rested and switched to the Moccs sent it in the next 30 minutes it comes down to evaluation of your personal preference and knowing the capability in your legs and feet