La Sportiva Pythons equivalent??

this is the usual "test route" i put all my shoes and resoles through

while one can smear it (best not on a warm day) ... with good shoes one should be able to stand on the crystals and edge the fingernail crimps (if you fall while gripping hard you can lose a fingernail)

as its lower angle everything is on your feet, yr hands simply keep you on the wall

its not a hard route but it will tell you how your shoes perform on yr typical squamish granite very quickly

the one and only wong on FoF

mountainproject.com/v/fear-…

ive never found my resoled katana lace or miura VS to soften up alot at the first resole, usually they just conform to the foot a bit better ... but then i send em in well before there are any holes, and resole em with XS edge

once i resoled a pair of VS with stealth C4 and that did soften em up quite a bit

;)

bearbreeder wrote:with good shoes one should be able to stand on the crystals and edge the fingernail crimps

With that definition almost all my climbing shoes would be good shoes. The way I see it, any none-pocket hold I'd put my hands on in the downward direction, even if it's mostly for balance, would be considered a jug in good shoes.

reboot wrote: With that definition almost all my climbing shoes would be good shoes. The way I see it, any none-pocket hold I'd put my hands on in the downward direction, even if it's mostly for balance, would be considered a jug in good shoes.

hmmm ...

so basically thin granite slab/face is "full of jugs"?

gotcha

;)

bearbreeder wrote: hmmm ... so basically thin granite slab/face is "full of jugs"? gotcha ;)

If you can used it as hand holds, they are jugs for your feet in good shoes. 11a granite slabs are stuff you can climb in slippers.

effing gumbayz on a jug hall ...

pink panther 11c, squamish

you should come here and solo em, since they are literally JUGS !!!

;)

jonathan hemlock wrote: Don't think they make women's shoes in 43, maybe you're thinking of a different model? edit - I take it back, some do go to 43, but not the miura vs w's

LS says they don't make the women's Miura VS in 43, which is why when I found a pair I bought them immediately. They claim not to make 42.5 either but they're easy to find.

I have both the men's and women's in 43 and while they look alike (color aside) they feel markedly different.

Just got my Katanas (lace) back from first resole...good as new. Haven't softened too much...did you get toe caps reboot?

In terms of fit, the skwamas fit similar to the python, just a bit more snug in the forefoot.

They are much less sensitive, however

Ted Pinson wrote:did you get toe caps reboot?

If I have to get toe caps on any of my climbing shoes I may as well toss them...

reboot wrote: If you can used it as hand holds, they are jugs for your feet in good shoes. 11a granite slabs are stuff you can climb in slippers.

yep, pretty much any ole comfy shoe with rubber will do.

T Roper wrote: yep, pretty much any ole comfy shoe with rubber will do.

u can EDGE (not smear) slabs in any ole comfay shoe?

she dun think u can ...

mighty mouse 10d

do ya even slab there buddy?

its JUGS i tell you !!!

Ted Pinson wrote:Just got my Katanas (lace) back from first resole...good as new. Haven't softened too much...did you get toe caps reboot?

nonsense ... its goes FLAT and SOFT i tell you !!!

itll be as soggy as a limp MPer who lost his viagra prescription ...

actually the REAL question is did you resole em with XS edge at a good resoler

;)

Only bearboy from squamish could try to argue about shoes for slabs on a thread discussing downturned shoes.

Anyways, we all know nothing beats severely downsized Solutions on Squamish slabs.

;)

T Roper wrote:Only bearboy from squamish could try to argue about shoes for slabs on a thread discussing downturned shoes. Anyways, we all know nothing beats severely downsized Solutions on Squamish slabs. ;)

many hard (and not too hard) slabs get send in downturn shoes, or at least somewhat aggressive ones .... the hardest slabs dont get sent in any "comfy old shoes" ...

youtube.com/watch?v=_KJ9PzH…

course you would knot this if you actually slabbed ... its all JUGS

;)

bearbreeder wrote: many hard slabs get send in downturn shoes

I'm glad yo actually realized Beth was wearing flat lasted shoes & edited the video link.

bearbreeder wrote: course you would knot this if you actually slabbed ... its all JUGS ;)

Notice how Beth looked a world more secure the first moment she actually stood up on a (not even horizontal) hold she used for her hand? And Nalle can freaking match his feet on a hand hold he couldn't even pull down past his head, on a V13? You can post videos of people climbing V-hard slabs all day, it ain't gonna prove a thing for you.

reboot wrote: I'm glad yo actually realized Beth was wearing flat lasted shoes & edited the video link. Notice how Beth looked a world more secure the first moment she actually stood up on a (not even horizontal) hold she used for her hand? And Nalle can freaking match his feet on a hand hold he couldn't even pull down past his head, on a V13? You can post videos of people climbing V-hard slabs all day, it ain't gonna prove a thing for you.

how the ...

OMG the katana lace GO SOFT on a resole and having folks tell you that aint the case going? ... did you even use xs edge??

one of our locals sending one of the harder slab routes up here



squamishclimbingmagazine.ca…

wake me up when you come up and solo all our JUG SLABS !!!!

;)

bearbreeder wrote: OMG the katana lace GO SOFT on a resole and having folks tell you that aint the case going?

Do any of you actually climb 5.12 or harder slabs & know what hard edging is like?

bearbreeder wrote: one of our locals sending one of the harder slab routes up here

Because that guy is definitely edging there w/ his right foot, w/ his forefoot pretty much parallel to the wall & his heel way below it. Fail again.

reboot wrote: Do any of you actually climb 5.12 or harder slabs & know what hard edging is like? Because that guy is definitely edging there w/ his right foot, w/ his forefoot pretty much parallel to the wall & his heel way below it. Fail again.

Dude thats why folks dont use "any old pair of comfay shoes" on these slabs

Its clealy effing JUGS since hes holding on for balance

Just come up and solo out poor JUG slabs already

lets get to the bottom if why yr katana laces go limp after a single resole

Who exactly resoled em and with what rubber?

;)

bearbreeder wrote: lets get to the bottom if why yr katana laces go limp after a single resole Who exactly resoled em and with what rubber?

It was limp before the resole...Same thing w/ the Scarpa Boostic (way stiffer & longer lasting than Katana Lace) I have, climbing on actual micro edges a lot.

Here's a crop of a buddy of mine actually edging (crux of a 5.13+ slab FA). I told him I'd go w/ him (before the FA) if he can get me a pair of new Boostic (he gets his for free), cause I'm tired of wearing out (the sole of) good edging shoes on slabs.
edging

reboot wrote: It was limp before the resole...Same thing w/ the Scarpa Boostic (way stiffer & longer lasting than Katana Lace) I have, climbing on actual micro edges a lot. Here's a crop of a buddy of mine actually edging (crux of a 5.13+ slab FA). I told him I'd go w/ him (before the FA) if he can get me a pair of new Boostic, cause I'm tired of wearing out (the sole of) good edging shoes on slabs.

you DO know that any shoe will get somewhat softer as the rubber wears down .... the KL less so than the velcro, and the miura VS less than the miura

once my KL laces get resoled by a good resoler with XS edge they are basically as good as new, at least on the first resole

so exactly who resoled em and what rubber?

a good resoler can often resole the shoe so that its very hard to tell apart from a new pair ...

theres actually hands??? its all JUGS i tell you !!!

;)

Which is the resole?

bearbreeder wrote: you DO know that any shoe will get somewhat softer as the rubber wears down .... the KL less so than the velcro, and the miura VS less than the miura ;)

Thank you Mr. Obvious. Here's link to my post , R&R did a fabulous job retaining the shape of the shoe. There's nothing a resoler can do to w/ the softened sole. Here's my question to you, have you ever micro edged on 5.13+/V8 moves or harder? If not, how the hell would you know about what's required?