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Routes in Slippery Buttress
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Slip of the Arrow T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Slippermen T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tongue and Groove T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Undertone, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,886 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Apr 5, 2016 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
The Undertone is the gem of the Slippery Buttress routes. It climbs an exposed position along the right edge of the buttress connecting interesting features up a beautiful stretch of rock. There is plenty of 5.9 and 5.10a slabbing and thin face climbing, but the actual crux is the upper corner.
P1 (120', 5.10b): Climb up the right arete of the buttress following bolts and occasional gear placements to a roof. Pull through this and continue straight up via a well-protected seam, or step out right and follow the arete (easy but unprotected). Either path ends at a bolted anchor.
P2 (170', 5.10d): Move right off the belay and follow an interesting, leaning corner to a small, arching roof. Step left around the arete below this roof, then climb up and back right (now above the roof) and up into the upper corner. Climb up this with some difficulty to an anchor.
Two rappels straight down with a single 80m rope (or two ropes) will get you back to the ground (watch your ends).
P1 (120', 5.10b): Climb up the right arete of the buttress following bolts and occasional gear placements to a roof. Pull through this and continue straight up via a well-protected seam, or step out right and follow the arete (easy but unprotected). Either path ends at a bolted anchor.
P2 (170', 5.10d): Move right off the belay and follow an interesting, leaning corner to a small, arching roof. Step left around the arete below this roof, then climb up and back right (now above the roof) and up into the upper corner. Climb up this with some difficulty to an anchor.
Two rappels straight down with a single 80m rope (or two ropes) will get you back to the ground (watch your ends).
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