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Marshall King
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Apr 25, 2016
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Bloomington, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 345
Wanting to know the pros and cons of each five ten shoe.
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travis lang
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Apr 25, 2016
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alexandria,mn
· Joined Aug 2013
· Points: 640
I have had a pair of Anasazis for 2+ years now and I'm a big fan of them. A big pro for any slip-on climbing shoe is that you don't have to deal with the extra bulk of straps or laces that more traditional shoes have.
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Forthright
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Apr 25, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2011
· Points: 110
Well depends on what you want to climb. Anasazi VCS is a cambered, no down turn shoe that is more all around. Arrowheads have both camber and downturn and are more geared towards overhanging terrain. But for me I honestly can up size an Arrowhead and get more performance and still have a somewhat comfy shoe than a comfy sized Anasazi. The arrowheads are a little stiffer, with the Anasazi line in terms of stiffness going: Moc's VCS Arrowheads (Guides...haven't climbed in them but I'm guessing they aren't stiffer than a pinkie) Pinkies - Verdon (I know it's not a Anasazi shoe, but fuck do I love them)
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that guy named seb
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Apr 27, 2016
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Britland
· Joined Oct 2015
· Points: 236
Both have a shit heel, I can only speak for the arrowhead and barely even then because i got mine second hand. It's moderately aggressive i find i good up to about 45 degrees a size 8 fits my 9.5 street shoe relatively comfortably with the only uncomfortable part about them being the way the heel digs into my achilles, it was surprisingly soft (second hand so may be allot stiffer when new) but the softness was welcome being used mainly as just a comfy indoor bouldering shoe.
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Forthright
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Apr 28, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2011
· Points: 110
that guy named seb wrote:Both have a shit heel, If you don't fit the heel. Scarpa, Sportiva, Asolo, Lowa, Evolv, and any other brand have shit heels if you don't fit that brand.
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Ken Noyce
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Apr 28, 2016
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Layton, UT
· Joined Aug 2010
· Points: 2,648
NorCalNomad wrote: If you don't fit the heel. Scarpa, Sportiva, Asolo, Lowa, Evolv, and any other brand have shit heels if you don't fit that brand. True, but in my experience it seems like there are a lot fewer people who fit 5.10 heels than any other brand, but obviously this is just anecdotal. The real answer to the OP's question has really already been answered, arrowheads for steeper stuff, other anasazis for less steep stuff.
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that guy named seb
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Apr 28, 2016
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Britland
· Joined Oct 2015
· Points: 236
kennoyce wrote: True, but in my experience it seems like there are a lot fewer people who fit 5.10 heels than any other brand, but obviously this is just anecdotal. The real answer to the OP's question has really already been answered, arrowheads for steeper stuff, other anasazis for less steep stuff. Anasazi's literally have a square heel, no human on planet earth has a square heel, this means unless sized super tight it will all ways be baggy. To NorCalNomad I usually climb in la sportiva and love the heel of the miura vs and tarantula both are amazing, why am i climbing in 5.10 you may wonder, I got them for £30 and only use them for work.
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Eric K
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May 1, 2016
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Leavenworth, WA
· Joined Aug 2010
· Points: 45
Anasazi (vcs at least) is a great all rounder. I can climb steeps and cracks in it. It's a shoe that goes with me to EVERY crag. I have tried the arrowhead and think it's a great shoe for steeper climbing but personally I think the Verdon lace kicks it's ass. For any route that requires edging, for most angles, I would chose the verdon. If you need something for roof type climbing where you can pull with your toe than the Arrowhead will be better but it lacks Rubber for toe hooking so I would get something else.
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