I have heard of finger injury rehab training using a hang board. Does anyone have a successful protocol for this or suggestions on how to regain and rehab finger strength.
Just fyi this would be for A2 injury but no clear tear from MRI.
Other suggestions for healing would be great has been an ongoing issue even with what I feel is adequate rest/light climbing as rehab.
You need to be able to remove weight, i.e. hanging with 45 or 50 pounds off your body, or more. You want to exercise the muscles and tendons without causing pain.
2 loops of webbing hanging down that are load bearing a stable
start by laying on the ground and loading an individual fingertip at a moderate threshold while you watch tv or think about why youre laying on the ground for 30 minutes or more excercising one fingertip at a time
once you feel comfortable with that body weight rows, I prefer with my feet elevated
I partially ruptured my A2 in my right middle finger in early Nov. 2015. I heard a pop when it happened but no bow-stringing and several ortho visits confirmed it wasn't fully ruptured. My "rehab" was as follows. -About 2.5 months of resting it, Used ice and heat religiously 3 times a day for the first 2 weeks. Buddy taped it to my first finger anytime I though I might use it. -Once swelling was down I stopped using ice and went to just heat 3 times a day for about 15 min. Also started exercising fingers using power putty and those metolious balls after swelling went down. -After 2.5 months of rest/heat/putty I went to the gym and buddy taped and climbed only on jugs for another month, by this time my finger was feeling pretty much normal outside of climbing but would still get sore after climbing (not hurt sore, just tired sore) I was very cautious and still used heat and putty exercises and avoided anything that wasn't a jug . - When my finger started feeling better climbing i worked in smaller holds (not crimps, just non-jugs) and worked in harder climbing. I am back to full strength climbing on anything besides a micro crimp with my right hand. I still avoid really small holds.
I didn't have and regimented use of a hangboard, but i would periodically use one to test out my finger in a more controlled environment than on a boulder problem (foot slips, etc.)
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