Pre-order the new Yosemite Guidebook!

Definitely won't be pre- or any other kind of ordering.

James Ellis wrote: You're right, there's already an entire (epicly long) thread about this. So either stick to that thread or give it a rest, and quit muddying up this site with your opinions. This horse has been beaten dead time and time again.

BS. It is the opinion of many that ES's actions should negatively impact the sale of his book. This is the perfect place for those with that opinion to make it known. Buy it or not, but those that feel that ES's ethics are questionable enough to not buy his book have every right to express those concerns to others so that they can make that decision for themselves.

csproul wrote: BS. It is the opinion of many that ES's actions should negatively impact the sale of his book. This is the perfect place for those with that opinion to make it known. Buy it or not, but those that feel that ES's ethics are questionable enough to not buy his book have every right to express those concerns to others so that they can make that decision for themselves.

I agree, but I'm pretty sure every single user of this site has heard all of the reasons to not buy the book by now. When will the incessant bickering end?

James Ellis wrote:When will the incessant bickering end?

Never. This is what the mountain project forums are about

eli poss wrote: Never. This is what the mountain project forums are about

Certainly valid.

csproul wrote: BS. It is the opinion of many that ES's actions should negatively impact the sale of his book. This is the perfect place for those with that opinion to make it known. Buy it or not, but those that feel that ES's ethics are questionable enough to not buy his book have every right to express those concerns to others so that they can make that decision for themselves.

And we have every right to tell you you are a nuisance. Go away.

Yo Gang,

No problem if you want to post on this thread, lol, let's keep it on the home page until June!

Presales have been great so far. Really appreciate everyone spreading the word!

I have some posters, 24 x 36 of the cover of the book and a couple others if folks work at a gym and would like them, pm me.

Woot!
Erik

Let he who is without takes, cast the first hex.

Looks really nice!
What would pricing be if you were to print this on wear/water resistant paper in binder format? - I would like to take a couple topo pages for the route, and put them back in when done.

amarius wrote:Looks really nice! What would pricing be if you were to print this on wear/water resistant paper in binder format? - I would like to take a couple topo pages for the route, and put them back in when done.

Get 2 books !

I have always felt strongly that we should let the climbers do what we do,
I was a traditional climber, a ground up no pre inspection no beta,
an onsight flash meant;
walk up and climb up to the belay stance with out weighting anything.

The Thing is, - that "climbing" has changed,
( the only things that are inevitable are Change & entropy)
Climbing however why ever, where ever -
-the style or how you do what you define as climbing-
is whatever you want.

Now climbing is not as sensitive to peer pressure some think for the better,
safer is the more exact description.

The many ways that climbing & new climbs happen is like making sausage;
The process is Not pretty to most eyes,
& and finding the balance between sweet and spicy is important.

I think that the stick clip debates also highlights the question of quality or what is
Important to someone & not to others. Safety is a cornerstone for discussion but
An individual decision.

Im on the fence, this topic has me caught, the worst case scenario demands a clear understanding
that the monitzation that is attached to this effort is going to lead to more redirecting of historical climbs, bolting, retro & re-bolting
( Not staying to existing bolt counts ?) the addition is what is in Question.
Taking out the need for skill?
(allowing for guiding?)
Destruction of climbs for/by overuse, blatant mid pitch conveyance anchors?
Disregarding any & all concerned possible consequences?
The constant addition of Bolts, new & upgrades of old . . . .
. . . . and where will it end?

The answer would be funny if you like climbing at a topless beach on the
Grid bolted Pockets of Finale, Italy, which is fun & funny
For Yosemite? Maybe not so funny?

Michael Schneider wrote: The constant addition of Bolts, new & upgrades of old . . . . . . . . and where will it end?

Good question. Was climbing at Seneca Rocks, WV. Local developer was really sad that a lot of quality but R/X routes never get traffic due to lack of climbers willing to get injured or die. Perhaps, when FAs die off, the routes can be reopened. There has to be something said about a developer climbing at 12+ level and put up a 11- R/X rated route, a route that he, most likely, can free solo anyways.

Good question about the binder, Amarius! I believe it would be pretty expensive. I floated the idea of a spiral binding for this one but it just didn't pan out.

For sure my goal with this book was to make it sturdy, so you can bring it to the crag with you - it has the quality sewn binding, thicker paper, and a reinforced cover.

Thank you everyone for the preorders! I'm gonna try and make some videos this year to better explain the stewardship efforts I undertake here. After 18 years of straight bolt replacement, and route maintenance, it's sad that we are still so far behind in Yosemite - so please don't let comments here dissuade you from getting involved at your local climbing area.

Woot!
Erik

I did a short interview with Sara Aranda and Patrick Hodge from AFU Studios about the book. You can see a bunch more sample pages:

facebook.com/afustudios/?fr…

mattm wrote: In fact, many say that the whole power drill ban was a result of climbers bitching during the early bolt war days much more so than the NPS taking and major issue with the practice.

In the case of wilderness, I believe the ban is on motorized equipment, not drills explicitly. I think the idea is they dont want anything with a motor being operated because it's loud and annoying which distracts from the experience. My understanding is the NPS' rules on motorized equipment are in place for basically the same reason.

amarius wrote: Good question. Was climbing at Seneca Rocks, WV. Local developer was really sad that a lot of quality but R/X routes never get traffic due to lack of climbers willing to get injured or die. Perhaps, when FAs die off, the routes can be reopened. There has to be something said about a developer climbing at 12+ level and put up a 11- R/X rated route, a route that he, most likely, can free solo anyways.

Are you talking trad, mixed orr sport? If the latter a dick move, if either of the former then suck it up or stay off of it until you have the goods - don't whine about it.

20 kN wrote: In the case of wilderness, I believe the ban is on motorized equipment, not drills explicitly. I think the idea is they dont want anything with a motor being operated because it's loud and annoying which distracts from the experience. My understanding is the NPS' rules on motorized equipment are in place for basically the same reason.

Not quite.

The Reasons:
Most of the Yosemite's climbing areas are in designated Wilderness, and motorized items, including power drills, are not allowed in these areas. In addition to this Congressional mandate, the park has an interest in limiting the impacts from climbing while enabling climbers to enjoy the park. The resulting rule allows climbers the unusual privilege of permanently altering Yosemite's granite cliffs by adding bolts in the location of their choosing, but inherently limits the number of those bolts by requiring that they be hand drilled.

Erik, How long is the pre-sale going on for?

Yo Gang!

Thanks for the interest.

JackKelly: The books will be available for preorder until June when they arrive, but the 25% will only last until for another week or so.

Go For It!
E

Erik, I'll be in the valley from the 4th to the 11th of June, any chance of the books being done by then, so I could pick one up while I'm out there?

Thanks

Yo Gang!

Thanks for the questions.

The books will be released at the dock in Oakland sometime between June 3 - 10th, depending on several factors like where the container is on the ship, how busy the dock is those days, etc. I will pick them up the day they are available, I promise, and drive them up to the Valley!

Some folks have asked what will happen if I don't raise the $30k to cover the printing costs. Don't worry, the books are paid for (75% down when we initiated the printing on Mar 8th, and just sent the remainder). I got loans to cover the cost of the printing, so am just trying to pay those back. Sorry for the confusion.

Thanks for the preorders! These books make great gifts, so if you know anyone who loves Yosemite, this is an awesome thing to give them!

Woot - Go For It!
Erik