Equalette Not Redundant

eli poss wrote:so the anchor failed from the upward pull of the initial fall and not from the factor 2 fall that followed?

Yes .... Ive personally seen pieces fail this way (not a whole anchor yet as i wouldnt be alive)

The initial big fall may generate a large upward pull which can rotate pieces out

We had to carry someone out who shattered both ankles 2 years ago because of this

In the case of the accident having ~100lb + of the belayer slamming UPWARDS intothe anchor so hard that she got knocked out probably didnt help the anchor pieces hold

No doubt deficient anchors will kill you, but that's a separate issue than debating the minutiae of what are otherwise truck anchors. The whole equalette vs. any number of exotic concoctions has been pretty beaten to death and most all of them will likely not fail if the pieces are good. Again, don't build or use shit anchors and learn to stance when unavoidably confronting such a circumstance.

P.S. And not anchoring down to deal with ridiculous weight differentials is yet another subject tangential to general anchor building.

Thanks for all the careful consideration. I'm abandoning the equalette for a clove-hitched master point.

Ryan-G wrote: Captain obvious? Every MP post needs one. Snooze....

not obvious enough to those in the accident report i posted earlier

captain snark? every MP post needs one ... zzzzzz

;)