Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 130 ft (39 m), Grade IV
FA: Greg Sievers, Brad Grohusky
Page Views: 7,802 total · 28/month
Shared By: Greg Sievers on Jan 20, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This route is located below and (East) in front of the North Face of Hallett Peak. Directly below and left of Hallett Chimney, on the next feature lower down. It ascends a HUGE dihedral under a 15' roof.

Start with WI-3 for 30'-40', then climbs the left wall of the diheadral passing two, short OW sections on their left. the upper section of the dihedral gets thin and a KB will nicely fit a seam on the left wall. Climb to the roof.traverse to the left, under the roof, on a smooth face. Protection is found in small cracks in the roof. the crux is found on the outter corner of the roof, small nuts may protect you with blind placements. A short 15' section of narrow ledges will access a large bench above. A fixed pin and nut on the back wall allow a 60m rap. to the start.

(We were headed to do Hallett Chimney, but the weather conditions were horrendous. I had seen this little ice before and considered it a consolation when needed. I named it Bullett, because on my initial voyage for the onsight and FA. I had enjoyed the climbing until I got out to the left end of the big roof. I had a KB about 15' below me and a blue Alien in a small gap/crack in the roof about 10' to my right.  as I was attempting to turn the roof my crampons skated off the dime-sized edge I was trying to stand on. As I fell and pendulumed to the right, the Alien popped out, and I flipped upside down and shot down the wall like a bullet. I came to rest about 40' below and upside down and completely unharmed. I had a 3rd tool holstered and watched it sail out and shoot toward Brad. Then we traded places for the sharp end, and he finished it off. Naturally I didn't have any problems seconding cleanly, but isn't that typically the case?).  

This ice (and therefore) route forms up just about every year.

Addendum: an additional pitch has been done. See the comments below.

Protection Suggest change

2-3 ice screws. 3-5 hand sized cams. 3-6 small Aliens or TCUs and good selection of small-to-medium nuts. a few KB will make you feel better, too. I guess that basically says - full alpine rack.

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