Potential in Linville Gorge

I am still relatively new to climbing in North Carolina, two years of going to some of the popular spots (amphitheater, table rock, ship rock,hawksbill,looking glass). The ethics and FA style in NC are inspiring and the idea of ground up ascents are inspiring. With that said, it seems like there is still a lot of potential in Linville for new routes. I was in the gorge over the weekend noticing what seemed to be a lot of doable routes that I could not find in Selected Climbs or in Kelly's Guide. Do these potential lines remain undone because of the commitment of the FA style? One day I would like to explore for new lines and it seems there could be some hiding in plain sight. Anyone have thoughts on this? I always appreciate the knowledge of veteran climbers.

I know there are things not in the guides, just an observation. Where is the best place to find out about other routes? I would like to climb some of the less popular stuff.

There's a fellow named Nathan Brown that can help you out. Check out the Carolina Climber's Coalition website or FB page, as well.

I have had a hard time finding a one stop shop for Linville beta too. I am sure this is partly due to the sheer quantity of climbable rock in the gorge. I think there is a pretty good opportunity for a gorge climbing guide book. There are whole sport areas that are quite popular but are to my knowledge completely undocumented.

Dylan B. wrote:I've only been to Linville once--to Shortoff. I actually got a lot of pleasure out of the fact that there was a lot of rock that wasn't mapped out for me. I don't see a need for every area to be completely documented.

I hear ya Dylan but if it is a bolted sport route the allure of exploration is already ruined for me, just tell me what grade it is so I can avoid the 5.13D routes.

A comprehensive guide to Linville is long overdue -- it's been over 20 years since Kelly's last guide. The Select guide added a few "newer" routes but was not nearly as comprehensive. They're both way outdated now. There have been a few people tossing the idea around but nothing serious yet that I know of -- it'll be one hell of an endeavor collecting everything. With that said, even if a guide did come out there would likely still be cliffs omitted (sensitive access, etc.), so one could still very easily get their fill of exploration.

Pick up a copy of the cragger that covers the gold coast side of the gorge.

Rick Carpenter wrote:Pick up a copy of the cragger that covers the gold coast side of the gorge.

link please??

Rick Carpenter wrote:Pick up a copy of the cragger that covers the gold coast side of the gorge.

Hard to find anymore. Have not seen a copy in a long time. I have Grimm's High Country Cragger, but regretfully never bought the Gold Coast Guide. Wish I had one. I think Full Mantle Press was the publisher. If you know where to "pick one up" let us know.

Anyone have any info on this kelly's guide book? is that even the name of it? anyone have a copy they want to sell? thnx

Kyle Cobbler wrote:Anyone have any info on this kelly's guide book? is that even the name of it? anyone have a copy they want to sell? thnx

The Kelley guide (The Climber's Guide to North Carolina, Thomas Kelley) has been out of print for years. It's kind of dated, but it's definitely more comprehensive (and on the whole more accurate) than the Select guide. You can sometimes find a copy on Amazon, etc.; prices vary wildly.

Dylan B. wrote:How about a Comprehensive Sport Climber's Guide to Linville, one that only includes bolted climbs, and a Select Trad Climbs in Linville that includes the classics and is updated from the Kelly guide, maybe includes directions to less-documented, less-travelled crags, but without tons of routes and topos.

A better idea would be a comprehensive guide to everything in Linville (trad and sport). Anyone who prefers thrashing around through the rhodos to getting in lots of climbing mileage can just leave the guidebook at home.

JL

I peeked through the shop copy of the kelly guide at Black Dome on my lunch break today, I like this book so much better than NC selected climbs, I guess I'm just gonna pay for it on amazon.

The wall at the top between mummy and prow has alot of potential I climbed a handful of spots on it but never found any data about what I was climbing. Alot isn't hard so I know someone has done it before. I would love to have a big guide book for everything there.

That Gold Coast side of the gorge looks endless for single/two pitch climbs. Must have been explored over the years.... Tough approach, yes I can see that. Would be cool to know about it though, especially as an afternoon option when the sun drills the amphitheater side.

To add to what saxfiend said, "The climbers guide to NC" by Thomas Kelly offers a lot of info on older routes that aren't in the newer books. Just check Amazon and eBay constantly, I found my copy of Kelly's book on Amazon for $2.50. A goodwill located in Denver was selling it online.pretty cool and I didn't know they did that. I've gotten literary every one of my guides this way.

ViperScale wrote:The wall at the top between mummy and prow has alot of potential I climbed a handful of spots on it but never found any data about what I was climbing. Alot isn't hard so I know someone has done it before. I would love to have a big guide book for everything there.

That section of wall is called the Reggae wall, it is very very very briefly mentioned in the selected NC climbs book, like they just pointed it out in a picture and thats it.
Climbs in that area left to right:
jamaica 5.9
jimmy cliff 5.9
yo mamma's a rasta 5.10
electric avenue 5.8
trench town 5.9+
black uhuru 5.10+
third world 5.10
steel puse 5.12a
bob gnarly 5.11

this is taken from the kelly guide, you will also find a topo of them in there.

I pulled a nut off of what I think is trench town? a couple weeks ago...

Reggae wall is past the mummy buttress the area I am talking about is before you get to mummy buttress. Basically where the picture in select climbs for the amphitheater was taken from... i think anyway hard to tell since the picture is so poor and can't really tell where the arrow for reggae is pointing at.

ah, yes I don't know the name of that wall but it has SD Modiano 5.9 and rattle snake crack. Just did Modiano this weekend, that was a fun one! I think there is a topo of that in kelly too?? maybe... the climb is listed in there for sure.