The Long Riders
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.1 from 7 votes
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Paul Van Betten & Jay Smith |
Page Views: | 1,449 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Josh Janes on Apr 24, 2016 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
The Long Riders is a great pitch of difficult trad climbing with engaging movement and gear. Begin in the righthand of two left-facing corners that are located on the left end of the Mud Spring Wing immediately left of a massive, low roof.
Trundle up a hand crack to a loose ledge and begin climbing. In two spots (near a white rock scar) one can depart the corner itself by climbing the face to the left - however the natural line and protection opportunities will keep you returning to the corner. A narrow ledge at 2/3 height affords a rest before a difficult stemming crux above very small gear (000 C3's and brass) to a finger lock. Above this a short stretch of "athletic" liebacks and stems leads to a bolted anchor.
Note that there used to be an old (bail?) anchor on the sloping ledge immediately below the crux but it has been removed. Also, I speculated (incorrectly - see comment below) that this route was originally protected with a piton or two. Without them the climbing is spicy and committing but I am reluctant to say the pitch is objectively dangerous if you're crafty with small gear.
Trundle up a hand crack to a loose ledge and begin climbing. In two spots (near a white rock scar) one can depart the corner itself by climbing the face to the left - however the natural line and protection opportunities will keep you returning to the corner. A narrow ledge at 2/3 height affords a rest before a difficult stemming crux above very small gear (000 C3's and brass) to a finger lock. Above this a short stretch of "athletic" liebacks and stems leads to a bolted anchor.
Note that there used to be an old (bail?) anchor on the sloping ledge immediately below the crux but it has been removed. Also, I speculated (incorrectly - see comment below) that this route was originally protected with a piton or two. Without them the climbing is spicy and committing but I am reluctant to say the pitch is objectively dangerous if you're crafty with small gear.
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