Measuring strength training volume- new alpinism
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Hey all, |
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Hi Dirt, |
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Dirt Squirrel wrote:Hey all, Just wondering how you measure training volume for the strength training described in new alpinism? Is it based on hours in the gym? Total weight? Halp.Everything in New Alpinism is time based. |
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As discussed in the New Alpinism thread in Mountaineering ( mountainproject.com/v/new-a…), and with supplementary information from the authors, all training volume in New is time based. |
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FosterK wrote:As discussed in the New Alpinism thread in Mountaineering ( mountainproject.com/v/new-a…), and with supplementary information from the authors, all training volume in New is time based. According to the information presented by the authors: -Strength training is inclusive of rest time (i.e. your rest between sets and exercises counts towards training volume); -Climbing is exclusive of rest time (i.e. only your time making upward progress on thew all counts towards training volume);However they also talk about moving from one exercise directly to another which targets a different muscle group, assuming that this will allow a 3-5 minute rest between work on the same muscle group. Following that plan you would almost always be working during the strength session. Personally I do one leg romanian dead lifts and high box steps because I needed to focus on my posterior chain, I find it easy to finish my set of pull ups or dips before that 3 minutes, so I have a minute or two to rest before starting those sets. I deduct that time. Hey, what about down climbing!? Does that not count! ;) |
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I've been working with the program for New Alpinism about two years now. |