So i'm heading to rainier in july to climb the kautz glacier. and i'm curious what people use for axes on that, obviously you need a regular piolet, but for a second tool, what do people use? i have a pair of nomics, but i wondered if buying a sumtec would be better. im just thinking that swinging a mountaineering axe with a nomic could be incredibly awkward on the steeper second pitch.
Thanks for the help in advance MP. cheers Alex
wisam
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Apr 24, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2012
· Points: 60
I would think a sum tec and nomic could be a pretty good combination. Have tried that combo ice climbing before and it worked well for me but never on the kautz
Alex Palombitch wrote:So i'm heading to rainier in july to climb the kautz glacier. and i'm curious what people use for axes on that, obviously you need a regular piolet, but for a second tool, what do people use?
A piolet and a ski pole is all a competent person needs. Well two ski poles for the much of the rest of the route. Many, many think two tools are needed but the difficulties are not that steep nor are they very long.
I climbed the route about 20 years ago. Cool route! Assuming you are spending a night at Camp Hazard, and you plan to climb the Kautz ice fall early the next morning, you are likely to find very hard snow / soft ice. Having a regular mountaineering axe as your best tool isn't very safe on this route, even for a competent WI5 leader. I would bring at least 1 water ice tool, and maybe 2. Or make sure your mountaineering axe has a sharp pick - maybe that is a good compromise - paired with a water ice tool.
Same advice for Liberty Ridge.
Awesome mountain. Share up a trip report post climb.
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