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Ice axes for Kautz glacier

Original Post
Alex Palombitch · · Moose Pass, AK · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 56

So i'm heading to rainier in july to climb the kautz glacier. and i'm curious what people use for axes on that, obviously you need a regular piolet, but for a second tool, what do people use? i have a pair of nomics, but i wondered if buying a sumtec would be better. im just thinking that swinging a mountaineering axe with a nomic could be incredibly awkward on the steeper second pitch.

Thanks for the help in advance MP.
cheers
Alex

wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

I would think a sum tec and nomic could be a pretty good combination. Have tried that combo ice climbing before and it worked well for me but never on the kautz

diepj · · PDX · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

I climbed it a couple years ago with a pair of venoms and they were great. Axe + venom would work well too.

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460
diepj wrote:Axe + venom would work well too.
That would be ideal
Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203
Alex Palombitch wrote:So i'm heading to rainier in july to climb the kautz glacier. and i'm curious what people use for axes on that, obviously you need a regular piolet, but for a second tool, what do people use?
A piolet and a ski pole is all a competent person needs. Well two ski poles for the much of the rest of the route. Many, many think two tools are needed but the difficulties are not that steep nor are they very long.
Wally · · Denver · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

I climbed the route about 20 years ago. Cool route! Assuming you are spending a night at Camp Hazard, and you plan to climb the Kautz ice fall early the next morning, you are likely to find very hard snow / soft ice. Having a regular mountaineering axe as your best tool isn't very safe on this route, even for a competent WI5 leader. I would bring at least 1 water ice tool, and maybe 2. Or make sure your mountaineering axe has a sharp pick - maybe that is a good compromise - paired with a water ice tool.

Same advice for Liberty Ridge.

Awesome mountain. Share up a trip report post climb.

Wally

Alex Palombitch · · Moose Pass, AK · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 56

Thanks for all the information! i think i'm gonna go with a venom and raven pro.

i will definitely post a report.

cheers
Alex

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Mountaineering
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