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> j. Le grand dièdre
Direct Direct
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 2.9 from 14
votes
Routes in j. Le grand dièdre
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Camay T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Direct Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Directissime T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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La Classique T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, 330 ft (100 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Charles Laliberté et Bernard Maillot (1979) |
| Page Views: | 2,526 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Luc-514 on Sep 28, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luc-514, Thierry Berland, Richer Lariviere |
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Access Issue: This cliffs is insured by the FQME
Details
This cliffs is under the liability insurance of the Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FQME).
Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
Residents of Canada need to have:
-FQME 'Accès Montagne' membership (55$)
-For members of the Alpine Club of Canada an FQME 'Accès Montagne' upgrade (30$)
Or purchasing a 10$ day pass.
This money is used to pay the liability insurance for landowners regardless if they are private citizens, municipal or provincial.
The maintenance of cliffs and their access, replacing of fixed protection.
Description
1st Pitch: Ascends the right side of the wall. Expect a long but easy run-out halfway up. Start by climbing the small chimeney to the fisrt ledge and a 2 bolt anchor. Then head on the right side of the face passing two fixed pins.
2nd Pitch: Follows the most direct line up the wall. Start by going up the obvious ramp system to the small roof. Then straight up to the left facing corner. Once in the left facing corner, exit right to a small ledge with a fixed pin. Make a mantleshelf move (5.6 crux) to exit straight up.
This pitch can be broken in two to make the climb more enjoyable (communication, rope drag...)
Originally submitted by elvador
2nd Pitch: Follows the most direct line up the wall. Start by going up the obvious ramp system to the small roof. Then straight up to the left facing corner. Once in the left facing corner, exit right to a small ledge with a fixed pin. Make a mantleshelf move (5.6 crux) to exit straight up.
This pitch can be broken in two to make the climb more enjoyable (communication, rope drag...)
Originally submitted by elvador
Location
Follow the trail at the base of the cliff, when the wall rises after a large flat area, keep following the cliff up the boulder field until you reach a platform at the base of the large left facing corner.
45 minute hike from the parking lot.
Two (2) 50-60m rappels from the top anchor or head up the last overlap (left and up)& hike back down trail #1.
Suivez le sentier de grimpe qui longe le bas de la paroi, suivez le mur lorsqu'il se met a monter (après un grand espace plat) jusqu'au haut du pierrier dans le grand dièdre faisant face a gauche.
45 minutes de marche a partir du stationnement.
Deux (2) rappels de 50-60m a partir du dernier relais aussi-non montez le dernier sursaut (passage un peu a gauche du relais) pour rejoindre le sentier #1 qui redescend la montagne.
45 minute hike from the parking lot.
Two (2) 50-60m rappels from the top anchor or head up the last overlap (left and up)& hike back down trail #1.
Suivez le sentier de grimpe qui longe le bas de la paroi, suivez le mur lorsqu'il se met a monter (après un grand espace plat) jusqu'au haut du pierrier dans le grand dièdre faisant face a gauche.
45 minutes de marche a partir du stationnement.
Deux (2) rappels de 50-60m a partir du dernier relais aussi-non montez le dernier sursaut (passage un peu a gauche du relais) pour rejoindre le sentier #1 qui redescend la montagne.
Protection
Double rack BD #0.5 - #2 with a couple smaller pieces, nuts! tri-cams could be useful as well.
Belays are bolted, intermediate belay on P2 has two (2) pitons but back them up.
Double 60m if you want to rap back down.
Rack double BD #0.5 - #2 avec une couple de petit morceaux, bicoins et des tri-cams peuvent êtres utile.
Les relais sont sur des plaquettes et l’intermédiaire sur la deuxième longueur a deux (2) pitons plus pro naturelle.
Cordes double 60m si vous voulez descendre en rappel.
Belays are bolted, intermediate belay on P2 has two (2) pitons but back them up.
Double 60m if you want to rap back down.
Rack double BD #0.5 - #2 avec une couple de petit morceaux, bicoins et des tri-cams peuvent êtres utile.
Les relais sont sur des plaquettes et l’intermédiaire sur la deuxième longueur a deux (2) pitons plus pro naturelle.
Cordes double 60m si vous voulez descendre en rappel.
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