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Routes in Hallett Peak
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Ad Nauseum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Anderson-Magill 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Better Than Love T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Block Party T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Bold Is Love T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Center Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Collins Donn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Culp-Bossier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Day Trippin' T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Direct Second Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Englishman's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Finch Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Great Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hesse-Ferguson T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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In Between (aka Right Dihedral) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Jackin' the Johnson T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jackson-Johnson T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kor-Van Tongeren T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Love at First Sight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Love Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Northcutt-Carter T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Owlbear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Point Five Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roomates Suck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Second Buttress Tour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Standard Route aka 1st Buttress Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Storm Riders T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | R. Northcutt, Carter |
| Page Views: | 17,198 total · 83/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Apr 25, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
Odd, wasn't this in the database?
Note, this route is now probably 5.10R unless someone has figured out an easier start.
This was originally a 50 Classic Climbs route. There has been much history about this route. Once, it carried a somber reputation of a fear-inducing North Wall. However, a couple Californians came to erase that reputation with an afternoon ascent. In its former state, it provided a great, moderate line up the 3rd buttress. With the rock fall which changed the first 2 pitches in the late 1990s, this route's start increased in difficulty to the 5.10 R range. Still, some loose rock exists in the section between the 2nd and 3rd buttresses which runs across the start of this line. Route finding still is a bit challenging, as evidenced by bits of scattered gear along the route.
Per Bob Dergay: alternatively you can: "start this route by going up the wide crack/squeeze chimney on the Kor-Van Tongeren route just to the right of the scar. Head up as if you're starting the Kor-Van Tongeren, then after emerging from the squeeze chimney (5.8ish) you do a pitch left (75-80 feet), staying essentially level and you'll come to the old anchors/slings that were the original Northcutt-Carter 3rd pitch start."
The approach takes about 1 1/3 to 1 1/2 hours.
P1. Ascend a corner to a chimney about 1/2 a rope length, move left, pass a smooth section and belay at a reasonable stance. ~110'.
New line - Ascend somewhat fractured rock.
P2. Ascend a dihedral, move left into another dihedral, pass pins, then move left again into another dihedral, and belay at a ledge. ~150'.
New line - TBA.
P3. This can be a route-finding challenge. Move up ~20' then move left to a smaller-than-you-think right-facing dihedral (~80' out) that is the right side of a subtle pillar. You'll likely pass 3 pins. You'll be drawn further left than you think, if you don't look carefully. ~160'.
P4. Go up a crack above this pillar in a R-facing dihedral. Continue up a left-facing dihedral and belay in nook. You'll likely pass some pins & fixed nut. ~150'.
P5. Pass a bulge on its right side, then move left, pass a ledge, fade right, go up to a 2nd ledge with a pin. ~160'.
P6. Continue up a shallow dihedral up and right with a pin past a bulge. Continue up left past fixed pins into a chimney. The belay seemed semi-hanging. ~165'.
P7. Climb up and right, then undercling left, pass a bulge, and continue up somewhat a chimney with pins at the top. ~140'.
P8. Move slight down to a gully, continue to the top of the wall.
Descent: hike uphill/right into the gully bordering the right side of the third buttress. This is loose in spots and can provide some excitement. Near the bottom of the gully, you must trend a bit uphill, climber's right, to keep the descent mellow.
Note, this route is now probably 5.10R unless someone has figured out an easier start.
This was originally a 50 Classic Climbs route. There has been much history about this route. Once, it carried a somber reputation of a fear-inducing North Wall. However, a couple Californians came to erase that reputation with an afternoon ascent. In its former state, it provided a great, moderate line up the 3rd buttress. With the rock fall which changed the first 2 pitches in the late 1990s, this route's start increased in difficulty to the 5.10 R range. Still, some loose rock exists in the section between the 2nd and 3rd buttresses which runs across the start of this line. Route finding still is a bit challenging, as evidenced by bits of scattered gear along the route.
Per Bob Dergay: alternatively you can: "start this route by going up the wide crack/squeeze chimney on the Kor-Van Tongeren route just to the right of the scar. Head up as if you're starting the Kor-Van Tongeren, then after emerging from the squeeze chimney (5.8ish) you do a pitch left (75-80 feet), staying essentially level and you'll come to the old anchors/slings that were the original Northcutt-Carter 3rd pitch start."
The approach takes about 1 1/3 to 1 1/2 hours.
P1. Ascend a corner to a chimney about 1/2 a rope length, move left, pass a smooth section and belay at a reasonable stance. ~110'.
New line - Ascend somewhat fractured rock.
P2. Ascend a dihedral, move left into another dihedral, pass pins, then move left again into another dihedral, and belay at a ledge. ~150'.
New line - TBA.
P3. This can be a route-finding challenge. Move up ~20' then move left to a smaller-than-you-think right-facing dihedral (~80' out) that is the right side of a subtle pillar. You'll likely pass 3 pins. You'll be drawn further left than you think, if you don't look carefully. ~160'.
P4. Go up a crack above this pillar in a R-facing dihedral. Continue up a left-facing dihedral and belay in nook. You'll likely pass some pins & fixed nut. ~150'.
P5. Pass a bulge on its right side, then move left, pass a ledge, fade right, go up to a 2nd ledge with a pin. ~160'.
P6. Continue up a shallow dihedral up and right with a pin past a bulge. Continue up left past fixed pins into a chimney. The belay seemed semi-hanging. ~165'.
P7. Climb up and right, then undercling left, pass a bulge, and continue up somewhat a chimney with pins at the top. ~140'.
P8. Move slight down to a gully, continue to the top of the wall.
Descent: hike uphill/right into the gully bordering the right side of the third buttress. This is loose in spots and can provide some excitement. Near the bottom of the gully, you must trend a bit uphill, climber's right, to keep the descent mellow.
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