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Crow Hill trad rack requirements

Original Post
LegendMetalCo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0

So I've contemplated for awhile about asking this but what's a good basic rack to go to Crow Hill in Leominster and start trad climbing? I have a few pieces of gear but I'm not sure if it's enough and I certainly don't want to find out its not enough half way through.

What I have collected thus far:
.5 to 3 bd c4 cams
A full set of dmm nuts
A full set of bd nuts
5 quick draws
3 alpine draws
Extra biners
Obviously have a harness, Nut tool, belay device, ect ect.

I'm looking to start on the easy stuff to get used to plugging gear into the wall. Should I look into smaller cams or tri cams also?

jackkelly00 · · Chocorua, NH · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 325

Great first lead at Crow

mountainproject.com/v/board…

Your listed gear will suffice.

Be safe and have fun.

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

A Bosch seems to be the gear of choice these days :-)

LegendMetalCo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0

I'm going to pick up some cordelette and as time goes on I'll add more to the rack. Or as I find some more deals I'll add to it. I picked the Cams and dmm nuts off criagslist and I'm itching to actually put them to use unlike the previous owner.

Lol Bosch... I saw that thread about the bolted route.

LegendMetalCo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0

Boardwalk has anchors at the top? Or are people building anchors?

jackkelly00 · · Chocorua, NH · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 325

If leading, you can just run your rope back to the trees for an anchor.

Caz Drach · · C'Wood, UT · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 310
Eric Engberg wrote:A Bosch seems to be the gear of choice these days :-)
THAT made my day Mr Engberg
Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0
LegendMetalCo wrote:Boardwalk has anchors at the top? Or are people building anchors?
Should be bolts there. If not or if they are in bad shape you can use trees further back. The bolts were originally installed (~15 years ago) not for convenience but to mitigate erosion and save the trees - so use them if you can.
LegendMetalCo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0
jackkelly00 wrote:If leading, you can just run your rope back to the trees for an anchor.
Valid point, thank you. This will be my first trad lead....
coldatom · · Cambridge, MA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 70
Tom's Dilemma is a good firsty also.

There are bolts at the top of Boardwalk, but you absolutely need very long slings to extend if you want to set up a slingshot belay. Actually, that is a theme at Crow Hill. You can, of course, just use the rope and top belay, but please be sure you know what you are doing.
Doug Kinsman · · Atlanta, GA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 0

For the easier climbs at Crow you may want smaller cams. Green Corner, Open Book, Boardwalk, Tom's, Outersight, Intertwine, Thin Line, Fool on the Hill, Triple Overhangs all favor smaller gear but do not take anything big. I would trade out the #3 C4 for a yellow and a green Alien or something of similar size. Climbs where a bigger piece is nice include Diagonal, Tarzan, and Cro Mag (not necessary but nice). There are a bunch more climbs I am forgetting but the #3 just isn't needed that much at CH.

dave custer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 2,411

Indeed, the gear list noted at the start of the page should get you up most things. It is considerably more elaborate than many a rack of yesteryear. The nuts will suffice in the absence of small cams. The climbs are either short or can be broken into short pitches. And in the worst case, if you run out of gear, lower, walk to the top and get the gear back via rappel...

I'll add "Chimney Route to the Blue Route top-out" to the list of good first leads. Chimney Route doesn't seem to be in the MP listing, but is ~5.6 and a better start to "Blue Route" now. Step down & (climber's) left from the start of Intertwine. Head up the right-arching, right-facing corner system; squeeze by a tree; (mid-climb anchor optional) head left & up the obvious corner/weakness.

JD1984 · · Leominster, MA · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 866

Camp tri cams are very helpful on all routes... especially the small pink one. You can lead all of the easy routes without them but I prefer to use them. DMM Torque Nuts work well on some of the easier routes as well but I recommend practicing with them on the ground a lot.... they can be finicky.

My favorite easy route is to link the 1st pitch of Outersite with the 2nd pitch of Chinney. The finger crack start of Outersite is wayyyy better than either Blue Route or Chimney 1st pitch. Solid nut placements then a very fun, easy flake move to low angle slabby stuff.

Pink tri cam is nice for Sidewinder as well.

LegendMetalCo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0
dave custer wrote:Indeed, the gear list noted at the start of the page should get you up most things. It is considerably more elaborate than many a rack of yesteryear. The nuts will suffice in the absence of small cams. The climbs are either short or can be broken into short pitches. And in the worst case, if you run out of gear, lower, walk to the top and get the gear back via rappel... I'll add "Chimney Route to the Blue Route top-out" to the list of good first leads. Chimney Route doesn't seem to be in the MP listing, but is ~5.6 and a better start to "Blue Route" now. Step down & (climber's) left from the start of Intertwine. Head up the right-arching, right-facing corner system; squeeze by a tree; (mid-climb anchor optional) head left & up the obvious corner/weakness.
I saw the 2 pitch "Chimney route" I've got my eyes set on it for down the road. I think sticking to single pitch while learning trad is a good decision in my head. But it's definitely on my list once I get a few routes under my belt. I think I might pick up a pink and black tri cam for the time being and get out there and start plugging gear. Down the road I have full intentions of picking up some smaller cams to expand my rack for more routes.
grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

I dont get this trad rack requirements for a specific area stuff? Its all basically the same. Cams and a set of nuts. There ya go.

Look through the area at some specific climbs you want to do. What are the gear requirements. Boom done.

LegendMetalCo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0
grog m wrote:I dont get this trad rack requirements for a specific area stuff? Its all basically the same. Cams and a set of nuts. There ya go. Look through the area at some specific climbs you want to do. What are the gear requirements. Boom done.
If you check out a few of the routes listed, generally for pro listed it only says "a standard rack" well a standard rack can vary from your grandfathers rack of hexes, chocks and nuts to someone with a full rack of cams from micro aliens to #5 c4's.
I live approx 2hrs away from Crow Hill with it being the nearest Trad spot I don't want to drive all the way out there on a Sunday and quickly figure out I can't climb anything because of lack of gear. If your thinking "then why don't you just buy more gear?" Because let's all be honest it's pretty expensive.....
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Having less gear won't mean you can't climb it, you just might have to run it out.

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0
LegendMetalCo wrote: If you check out a few of the routes listed, generally for pro listed it only says "a standard rack" well a standard rack can vary from your grandfathers rack of hexes, chocks and nuts to someone with a full rack of cams from micro aliens to #5 c4's. I live approx 2hrs away from Crow Hill with it being the nearest Trad spot I don't want to drive all the way out there on a Sunday and quickly figure out I can't climb anything because of lack of gear. If your thinking "then why don't you just buy more gear?" Because let's all be honest it's pretty expensive.....
Since most of the routes you are considering were first done with your grandfather's standard rack - I think you have your answer.

Just need a variety of sizes - could be active or passive - and the competency to use them. It's not like the only way a route can be protected is with a pink tricam in a solution hole followed by a black alien. Don't overthink it.
grog m · · Saltlakecity · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 70

Nuts and hexes are never a "standard" rack. This isnt the 70s. A standard rack is doubles from 0.3-3 and a set of nuts. You could climb 80% of all climbs with that.

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

Eric, As you well know, the "grandfather's standard rack' for the FAs of most of those routes at Crow were Army angles and a few blade pitons!!!!

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0
Alan Rubin wrote:Eric, As you well know, the "grandfather's standard rack' for the FAs of most of those routes at Crow were Army angles and a few blade pitons!!!!
And they worked perfectly ok
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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