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Buena Vista/ Twin Lakes Area Crag

Original Post
Henry Holub · · Altus, OK · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 705

I'm going to have a youth group up climbing in the Buena Vista/Twin Lakes area this coming July and am needing some help from any locals as I pick a crag to take them climbing at. I'm looking at what MP lists as the Entrance Slab across the highway from Parry Peak Campground by Twin Lakes. I'm looking at it because its seems to have two easy routes and I assume it won't have lots of people lined up to climb there. Any locals advise me on whether or not I'm right? What other crags might have non-existant crowds and mellow lines? What are some crags to avoid? I don't want to tie up popular lines with a large group of new climbers

Colorado Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 70

I'm guessing since you are asking that you don't have permits to guide in this area. If that's correct then you should consult one of the local guide companies in this area. They will have the expertise, local knowledge, and permits to safely and legally guide your group. Here are two great choices: rmoc.com/ and noahsark.com/.

Rick Blair · · Denver · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 266

I wouldn't say anything in the area is super popular. I can recommend practice wall at Camp Hale, normally I wouldn't but Colorado Climbers post encouraged me.

Henry Holub · · Altus, OK · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 705

I may need an education on the regs, but I'm not making money off this trip or guiding as far as I know. I'm a minister bringing a group of kids up for a backpacking trip in the NF. I take my group climbing in the Wichita Mtns here close to us on a regular basis and thought we'd work it in during our acclimation day. I'll come up at the end of May to check the area out and finalize my trip plans. Thanks for the heads up on Camp Hale Rick, I'll check it out.

dan zika · · jax wy · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

Buena vista already has quite a few tourists. But it has alot good white water, excellent mountain biking, road riding, hiking up 14ers, the only thing it lacks is technical alpine routes. Oh it has no ski resort.
Good climbing at turtle rock check it out, this where all the people camp to take off for the easy 14ers. How many people are you talking about anyways? Im not a local though.

Chris Schmidt · · Fruita, CO · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 0

Turtle Rock is where the Non-Profit I used to work for took groups for easy top roping.

I have no idea about shade and how busy it would be in July however. You will definitely need high elevation and shade in July.

Henry Holub · · Altus, OK · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 705

Our group will be around a dozen people. I've done a lot of hiking in the collegiate peaks area but my wife isn't a climber so our vacations there tend to just be hiking/backpacking. I'll go some time with my climbing partner and check out bob's and turtle. With a group, I will be avoiding those because I know they see more action than most stuff in the area and I don't want my group messing up someone else's day.

Colorado Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 70

If you are leading a group then you are guiding. Doesn't matter if you are getting paid. By assuming responsibility as the group leader then you are the guide and you required to have permits and insurance to lead groups in the National Forest and BLM. Call the local Forest Service office and ask for yourself, (719) 539-2579.

Henry Holub · · Altus, OK · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 705

Thanks CC, I'll give them a call here in a bit. It seems strange to require a permit for all groups. Is this also the case if you're taking a couple friends who don't climb much and you're the one with all the gear and know-how? I know they did not require one when we took our group backpacking last year.

Shep · · Grand Junction, Colorado · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20
Colorado Climber wrote:If you are leading a group then you are guiding. Doesn't matter if you are getting paid.
It actually does matter whether or not you are getting paid.

books.google.com/books?id=E…
Henry Holub · · Altus, OK · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 705

CC, I just called the Forest Service office in Salida and told them of what we were doing. They told me that permits were not necessary for what we have planned. Thanks for pointing me that direction though. Its always nice to double check

Henry Holub · · Altus, OK · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 705
Shep wrote: It actually does matter whether or not you are getting paid. books.google.com/books?id=E…
I knew I had read that before, but I couldn't place where.
Henry Holub · · Altus, OK · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 705

Ok, so before this thread becomes victim of classic MP derailment, I'll come back to my first question. I'm trying to find a crag in the area that has 5.5-5.6 climbing, doesn't attract large crowds, and has a relatively short approach. My range is from Salida up to the Twin Lakes area and down Independence pass a few miles. Any tips of places to go or places to avoid for reasons above is welcome. Thanks to those who have given input thus far

Shep · · Grand Junction, Colorado · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20

Arkansas Valley Climbing by Tom Perkins

amazon.com/Arkansas-Valley-…

I am unfamiliar with the climbing right around BV but there is also a plethora of rock as you drive out from Salida towards Canon City. However, none if this stuff is on MP. If you are willing to drive further, you can PM me for directions to a couple crags. They are almost always free of people and are very pretty.

Shep · · Grand Junction, Colorado · Joined May 2013 · Points: 20

In the future if you are ever looking for outdoor adventures for your youth group, I would check out Journey Quest. They are a Christ-centered wilderness ministry in the area that will structure a trip exactly how you want it for low cost. :) journeyquest.org/

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

The south end of Monitor rock has some easier stuff. Some are long multi pitch which is not quite what you are looking for. But you may be able to lead up a way and build anchors, maybe on trees. there are some sport routes there too. It just a few minutes from Twin Lakes.

Henry Holub · · Altus, OK · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 705

Thanks Greg, I just looked some more at monitor rock here and will probably buy the independence pass guide book for more info on it. I bet that holds exactly what I'm looking for.

Shep, thanks for the info on climbing toward Canon City. I'm trying to stay relatively close once we settle into the FS group campground that we're basing out of. And thanks for the link. I know of a few other organizations in the are that do similar things, and have used wilderness expeditions in Salida as an outfitter before. They're all great organizations that are out of the price range of the church that I'm currently working for (I fund a decent portion of this trip out of my own pocket because kids/families here don't have it and neither does the church). Backpacking is my first love and rock climbing comes in a close second. When our insurance said that they'd cover us doing activities like this, it became an easy call since I already had most of the necessary resources and could tailor a trip to fit my group.

I appreciate all the help. Thanks!

Mick S · · Utah · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 61

To answer your original question, you will likely have Entrance Slab to yourself. You should avoid Monitor Rock with a big group, since it is by far the most popular climbing in the area.

Henry Holub · · Altus, OK · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 705
Mick S wrote:To answer your original question, you will likely have Entrance Slab to yourself. You should avoid Monitor Rock with a big group, since it is by far the most popular climbing in the area.
Awesome. Thanks!
doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 269

Henry, I PM-d you with contact info of a friend who lives in BV.

NickinCO · · colorado · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 155
Colorado Climber wrote:If you are leading a group then you are guiding. Doesn't matter if you are getting paid. By assuming responsibility as the group leader then you are the guide and you required to have permits and insurance to lead groups in the National Forest and BLM. Call the local Forest Service office and ask for yourself, (719) 539-2579.
Definitely FALSE. If that were the case I'd be "guiding" every time I go climbing simply because I climb with a lot of new people who usually don't lead. If you think that's true how would anyone learn to climb?
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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