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nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525
nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525
Joe Grossmann · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 15
Ray Lovestead wrote:Sorry but I really think this Czech idea that using "no metal" is silly. They use carabiners, they use metal belay devices, where is the line drawn? It is like the Omish, who will use buttons, but zippers are out of the question. Silly. I too can solo a 5.8 while putting fake gear in.
Nathanael wrote: The line is pretty obvious, metal protection is different than belay devices and carabiners because it is in direct contact with the soft sandstone. As a result, in a fall it can damage the rock. The idea is that the soft knots will spread the load evenly, preventing damage to the rock.
I live close to this area south from Dresden,Germany and also on the czech side of the border.
The binder of the sandstone in that area is concentrated in a pretty thin patina. You got this thin layer of relatively hard material on the surface of very soft sandstone.
Once this layer comes off you can literally crush the "stone" with your bare hands. A friend of mine did so last year with a 4 inch pinch. On popular climbs this layer is usually gone. Then often a special hardener is used to reinforce the surface of the rock.
If you rub the stone once the patina is gone, you get loads of lose sand. Wiggling when placing you foot on a smear is a almost certain way to make it slip.

This should make it pretty obviuos why metal pro would just crush the rock and not arest any falls. Knots distribute the force more evenly to the rock and the material also adds extra friction.
This way the knots work pretty much like nuts do on normal rock.

Four years ago I started climbing in the gym when I was working in upstate NY. After six months I was leading 5.7+ in the Gunks. Almost one year later back home in Germany, 5.4's scared the crap out of me when I first came to this area ...
Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888
Tristan Bradford · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 2,598
John Pitcairn · · Arapuni, Waikato · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 1
Eli Buzzell wrote:https://vimeo.com/161782350
If the gear is pre-hung, it's basically a sport pinkpoint, no?
Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507
johnpitcairn wrote: If the gear is pre-hung, it's basically a sport pinkpoint, no?
I wouldn't know, I don't climb 12+ on Cathedral. Furthermore I hardly think that one pre-hung draw on a bolt or piton constitutes calling the gear pre-hung. Cool video, and a rad send.
nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525
Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,114
Tristan Bradford · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 2,598

I liked haywire but the end seemed a little dramatic. They didn't even show or talk about the extent of his injuries which looked to be not too bad. I mean i'm sure it hurt like hell but I was imagining it was gonna be some horrific wound and he was going to barely make it.

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,114
Tristan Bradford wrote:I liked haywire but the end seemed a little dramatic. They didn't even show or talk about the extent of his injuries which looked to be not too bad. I mean i'm sure it hurt like hell but I was imagining it was gonna be some horrific wound and he was going to barely make it.
I thought the video downplayed the incident a bit, as compared to the written account in Ascent. Being multiple days from medical care, in the cold, with polar bears, not sure if your back is broken...
nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525
mike again · · Ouray · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 47

I was worried about being too productive at work lately. This thread ought to cure that for awhile.

Daniel Evans · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 80

I love the commentary for the Course and Buggy video on YouTube.

"why not go up the slope on the left?"
re: "you don't climb do you?"

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

China:

youtu.be/g6i6O17KQV0

Not the most polished video, but highlights some intriguing areas...

kck · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 85
Lohan wrote:http://vimeo.com/147990527
Can someone explain his anti rope drag technique?
cnadel · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 5

It looks like he short-fixes himself via an eight/overhand-on-a-bight to gear that he places at his waist, then pulls up slack to feed down to his belayer to essentially put him back on belay bypassing all the gear placed up to the crux. If his grip goes while he pulls out the slack, then he's protected by the two cams at his waist.

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525
Chasing Choss · · California · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 416

Cant post it here but thought everyone would like to know that Valley Uprising is available on netflix now!!

Jason Todd · · Cody, WY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,114

Hardmen.

Solo, OS, no ropes, cowboy boots.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRgDW3qJJ1g

mountainproject.com/v/stand…

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