Big Wall - Solo - Anchor & Sequence

Hi All,

Check me on this please. I know I've posted a few other questions on this, but am trying to get dialed in. While I do know that improvisation is key, I want to at least begin with a game-plan in mind.

This is for solo aid climbing (grigri) w/ solo tag rack.

Pig is anchored in. Lead line super-eight'd to power point.

Solo tag rack on fifi on adjacent powerpoint.

Lead pitch using prusik rebelay system (looooong prusiks).

Arrive at 3 bolt anchor (assume tag line wasn't used)

PAS into one of the bolts.

Using Hudon’s “Anchor Kit” I put a large locker on each bolt. Left two have quickdraws dangling to large lockers as well.

Figure eight the rope on the left most top locker.

Butterfly the middle top locker

Butterfly the right top locker

Equalize strands a bit.

Figure eight the rope leading to anchors and tie into that.

"Off belay" (remove grigri setup). Note: now connected by PAS (attached to one bolt) and lead line attached to three bolts. Was never not connect by at least two points as I went "off belay" after tying into the figure eight. Also probably using an adjustable daisy for shits and giggles.

Pull up tag line and dock the tag bag.

Pull up haul line slack and anchor that, similar to main line anchor (figure eight plus two butterflies)

Set up for rap on haul line, backup knot, and release PAS, release eight on a bight

Rappel down (assume vertical and straight, rap haul line, other wise rap lead line)

Release the pig and clean lower anchor

Jug main line and clean as I go up.

Anchor back into main line with figure eight on a bight and a PAS on one of the lockers and set up for hauling on lower locker using 2:1 hauling ratchet.

Haul and dock the pig on the left most locker.

Set up ledge on right most locker and release PAS. Sit on ledge and settle in. (Note: I am tied into the rope via figure eight on a bight with a little wiggle room on the main line attached to the three lockers via two butterflies and a figure eight.)

Tether rack, beer, sleep, maybe food and a poop.

Question: do I spend the night tied into just this one point (the eight on a bight lead line which is butterflied independently to two bolts/lockers and figure eight'd to the third bolt/locker?

I don't see any problem.

One of the things that you really have going for you is that you've obviously organized it in your mind and then put it down on paper (which forces further organization).

When I see something like this, an outline that shows no over the top tricks or complicated safety techniques, It think, "Given good weather and general good luck, this guy is going to the top".

I would suggest adding rope bags to your process.
Once you tie up the anchor, you'll have the remainder of the lead line hanging around. I'd bag it up right then, and when you finish cleaning the pitch, reset the anchor and rebag the whole lead line and get it ready to go for the next pitch.
On a solo, I bag the haul line as I haul. Haul 30 feet, bag the rope, haul 30 more feet, bag the rope...

You get to the anchor and tie up the anchor with the section of lead rope you have right there. It might be the middle of the rope. The top end of the rope, is down there tied into the top end of the haul line. You pull up the haul line, anchor it and then bag your lead line. The top end of the lead line snakes out of your rope bag a bit (for future access) but and the remainder goes into the rope bag. The top end of the lead line has now becomes the bottom end.

For the whole of the route, the bottom end of your lead rope, stays the bottom end, it doe not flip up the route. If you bag your haul line as you haul, the haul line DOES flip up the route and you have to reset your haul bag tie in (and your haul line/lead line connection) every pitch.

Draw a picture of how it works so that you have it clear in your mind.

Cheers, good luck, be safe and have fun!

I have a "night cord" of 9mil that I dangle down from the anchor that I tie into for the evening. I put on an old style swami and live on my ledge with that.

Mark Hudon wrote:I have a "night cord" of 9mil that I dangle down from the anchor that I tie into for the evening. I put on an old style swami and live on my ledge with that.

Thanks Mark. I have two BD rope bags and plan to do exactly as you said. The kinds that zipper open and allow easy stuffing. Really like the idea I saw about running it through one of this Dmm revolver binders to make entry into the bag smooth.

10-4 on the 9mm /swami. More comfy than the Waldo for sure.