SQUAMISH - Early July Beta

I am thinking about climbing/camping in Squamish the first week of July. The weather makes it look like an awesome option for that time of year.

Considering that we will be there during the prime time I am concerned about the crowds. How bad are they? We will definitely want to do the classics, but are ok with early starts and will be there on week days. Will it be crazy crowded?

As for camping, will it be easy to find a spot? The spots at the base of the Chief will definitely be preferred. I would rather not pay $33/night to camp at the Khalanie Campground.

How much will peregine nesting closures affect our experience?

What do you recommend for rest day activities, places to eat, etc?

Super stoked to have a whole week off from work and definitely want to make the most of it.

Thanks so much for the input. It is awesome being able to reach out to the climbing community with questions.

Daniel

July is prime season for Squamish but there is still plenty to climb even when it is crowded. You might have to wait in line on the really popular climbs but it's not too bad. You probably won't get a spot at the Chief campground on or close to the weekend but you should be able to find a spot if you keep checking on weekdays.

Get the guidebook, it's very helpful for not just the climbing but also for other stuff to do.

Eat at Mag's 99...it's amazing. The sunflower cafe is also nice and where a lot of climbers hang out. The farmers market on Saturday has some good food as well.

Squamish is awesome, enjoy!

Hey Daniel,

I've spent a few summers climbing in Squamish. I'm sure there are lots of people on here with much more experience than I have in the area, but as a once in a while visitor, here are my thoughts for what they're worth.

First off, a couple questions for you. What's your general climbing plan for the trip? You planning on doing all multipitch routes on the chief? Spending some days at Smoke Bluffs or Murrin Park? Any bouldering? Sport climbing at the Check and other surrounding locations? If we know what you're trying to climb it will be easier to answer about crowds. From your post I'm guessing you're mostly asking about the multi-pitch lines. I've definitely encountered lines during July for the multi-pitch lines up the Chief, especially the ones starting at the bottom of the Apron. But never got hosed for a day because the route we were trying to do was too crowded. Again, I can count the climbs I've done on the Chief with twohands, I'm sure locals with more experience will way in with better info.

As far as camping. I really enjoy camping at Check, the sport crag about 20 minutes north of the Chief. You're tent or car/RV is a stones throw away from the the closest cliff band and there is no through traffic because the road dead ends at the parking lot for the crag. Also it's free. No amenities though other than an outhouse. We usually split our climbing at Squamish between sport climbing, bouldering, and routes on the Chief so I liked this spot. You may be less inclined if you're just planning on climbing at the Chief, but it wasn't too off putting to get up and drive 20 minutes to the Chief. If free camping is something you're into, people also camp along a dirt road that wraps around the Chief. Maybe there's some better spots I didn't find, but we've done this and I didn't enjoy it. You are right off the road and it is frequently used by logging trucks through the night. They kick up dust and it sounds like you're about to get run over in your sleep. If you're not averse to paying, the Squamish Campground is nice if spots are available.

Rest day activities: I enjoyed watching the videos they had available in the theater at the Squamish visitor center. There was one on the climbing history, one on the local wildlife and others I don't remember. Also, the Brennan Park Recreation Center is a nice place to go for a swim, soak in the hot tub, and grab a shower on a rest day. I remember it being pretty cheap, something like $3 or $5 for a daypass. Swimming in the surrounding lakes is always fun as well, look around and you can find some good rope swings if you're into that.

Lastly, Sushi Sen Japanese restaurant. If you like Sushi that place was killer! Also, the Howe Sound brewpub is a regular spot for climbers to go to. They had some delicious beers and brought in some pretty stellar live music when I was there.

Squamish is a beautiful place. I miss it. Hope you have a great trip, and get some good advice in this thread from people who know the area better.

DWR2 wrote: Considering that we will be there during the prime time I am concerned about the crowds. How bad are they? We will definitely want to do the classics, but are ok with early starts and will be there on week days. Will it be crazy crowded?

Busy, yes. Crazy crowded, no... but it depends what you want to get on. In general, there is plenty of great single-pitch climbing (at all difficulty levels) to go around, but the popular easy multipitches get slammed. If you are looking to get on one of the classic 5-pitch 5.8s, be prepared for crowding, especially on weekends, since the number of climbers trying to get on these routes greatly exceeds the number of routes available. Avoid the moderate routes on the Apron on weekends; stick to more out-of-the-way crags on weekends and do the classics during the week. If you can climb at a higher standard (say, mid-5.10 to 5.11), the number of good multipitch routes available opens up greatly and it becomes quite a bit easier to have a route to yourself. There are also some options to hike a ways to less-traveled crags (such as on the Backside) to avoid the masses.

DWR2 wrote: As for camping, will it be easy to find a spot? The spots at the base of the Chief will definitely be preferred. I would rather not pay $33/night to camp at the Khalanie Campground.

The campground is often full during July/August, and getting a site can be tricky. If you show up mid-week it is easier to score a site. You may need to make a friend to share a site with. There are also some free camping options up the Mamquam Forest Road, of slightly iffy legality. You can find somewhere to camp, but use good sense and minimize your impact.

DWR2 wrote: How much will peregine nesting closures affect our experience?

Not at all. There may or may not be a few long routes closed due to birds. No big deal- there are thousands of other climbs to choose from that will not be affected. The mega-classic long routes that you'll want to get on are not closed anyway. The closures do not affect any of the major single pitch cragging areas.

DWR2 wrote: What do you recommend for rest day activities, places to eat, etc?

Everything. The place is a playground. Mountain biking, sea kayaking, hiking, windsurfing, lounging in the sun...take your pick.

And +100 to Mags 99.

Another camping option is the campground near the rec center. Not sure how crowded it is in July, but I stayed there in September one year and it was pretty sparce. They weren't super on top of collecting camping fees, but that may have changed.

The proximity to the rec center puts you in walking distance to pools and hottub, not to mention showers. I don't remember the price.

It's also an easy walk along a bike path to the Adventure Center and then into town for groceries.

Thanks for all of the replies! This is super helpful. Exactly what I was looking for.

As for climbing I was hoping to do the multi-pitch moderates 5.10 and below and climb a lot of the single pitch trad lines. The Smoke Bluffs are definitely on my list of places to check out. Is the sport climbing at Check fun? Are there any moderate sport climbs?

Thanks!