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Routes in Gargoyle Wall
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A Million Ways to Die S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Aerial Combat S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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August Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Beehive T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Chimera S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Cholla Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Dr. Demento S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fresh Air Traverse T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c PG13 |
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Hard Times S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Hart Route S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Misgivings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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North Central Variation to the Hart Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Pedrick's Chimney S 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Pockets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 210 ft (64 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Larry Treiber, Doug Frericks 1978 |
| Page Views: | 3,741 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | clichtenberger Lichtenberger on Dec 8, 2011 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
P1-scramble up about 20 feet to the left cave. Belay on single bolt. It is possible to use a single rack of camalots from #.5-#2 to protect this climbing. To a single bolt belay.
P2-step right and climb up the bridge of the two caves. Climb the face trending up and right following bolts. After the fifth bolt start trending left past two more bolts to a double bolt belay above large granite boulder. This pitch is 100' long with a total of seven bolts.
P3-climb right then up and over bulge. Move left to clip first bolt then climb up and right to second bolt then up to two bolt belay joining the fresh air traverse.
Descent- Join the last pitch of Fresh air traverse and follow climbers trail to Pedrick's Chimney
P2-step right and climb up the bridge of the two caves. Climb the face trending up and right following bolts. After the fifth bolt start trending left past two more bolts to a double bolt belay above large granite boulder. This pitch is 100' long with a total of seven bolts.
P3-climb right then up and over bulge. Move left to clip first bolt then climb up and right to second bolt then up to two bolt belay joining the fresh air traverse.
Descent- Join the last pitch of Fresh air traverse and follow climbers trail to Pedrick's Chimney
Location
Hard Times is a classic face climb straight up the center of Gargoyle wall. This is a serious climb. It is easy to find if you are able to see the two large caves about 20 feet off the ground on the wall. Most people combine pitches one and two. There is quite a distance in between bolts and the belayer should be on guard for falling rocks. It is possible to rappel from the second pitch but will require down climbing if using a 60m rope. The third pitch is seldom done. All the bolts on the route are old 1.5inch drop in anchors. They are the original bolts placed in 1978. I wouldn't want to fall on them. The condition of the anchors is only half of the severity of this climb, the other half is the quality of the rock. So climb softly and prepare accordingly.
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