Recommendation for a new NC trad shoe

Asking the internet for climbing shoe advice might be an exercise in futility, but I figured I'd give the SE States forum a shot, since we all climb the same stuff.

I've been rocking the Mythos as my trad shoe ever since I started climbing. But lately I've been feeling insecure edging with it. I went down a half size with my last pair and I'm still not really happy with them. I'm wondering what else might be out there that would edge a little better, yet still be wearable for a whole day of multipitching.

And a follow-up: Who in our fair state has a decent selection of climbing shoes? I'm not aware of anyone in Charlotte that really carries much stock.

Never had any Mythos, they didn't fit my feet right. However, I liked the Scarpa Vapor Vs - I could wear them all day. I think they might even sell them at the gym? I'm climbing in Testarossas now but my toes can only handle one pitch at a time. Excellent performance though.

TC PROS!!!! I used to climb in Mythos and loved them. However, the TC Pro blows them away. Edging and smearing are great, and with the P3 system insole support, your feet won't tire anywhere as fast as with the Mythos. Plus for resoling, send them to Yosemite Bumb. They did a FANTASTIC job with mine including the rand

I'd get something with c4 rubber, the maximum stickiness makes those R/X slab runouts more tolerable. The new 5.10 Verdons are probably what you want.

Anisasi pinks have done me very well, all anisasi models preform well

miura male or female, lace up katanas have both served me well here in the se. currently climbing in newtons which also work. Its really not about the shoe though

Haha shit, Katanas are what I use for my sport shoe. Don't think I'd be happy up-romping multiple hours of slab in those. My lovely SO uses the Anasazis and likes them.

Thanks for all the suggestions, guy. Any idea where the best place to go to try stuff on around here?

Tc pro.

Black dome in Asheville

Miura's all the way. The TC Pro's I thought were too blocky and required too long of a break in period. I liked the sensitivity of the Miura's and it fits my narrow feet better similar to the Mythos. I have several pairs from new to many resoles. The ones I get resoled I use for slabbier climbing. I think it is the best "smedging" (smearing-edging) shoe out there. The katanas are great for edging, but not smearing.

I was about to recommend Rock Creek (most locations in/around Chattanooga) but it appears that they don't have Katanas or TC Pros. Depending on where in NC you're coming from, it'd probably be faster to drive through Atlanta. With that in mind, I'd Try Unique Outfitters at Stone Summit. IF you call ahead a few days, I think they can order in most any Sportiva shoe and you could try them on there. I realize you're in NC, but I figured this might help if you don't find anywhere in state to try them out. Maybe black dome Mountain Sports in Asheville?

TomCaldwell wrote:Miura's all the way. The TC Pro's I thought were too blocky and required too long of a break in period. I liked the sensitivity of the Miura's and it fits my narrow feet better similar to the Mythos. I have several pairs from new to many resoles. The ones I get resoled I use for slabbier climbing. I think it is the best "smedging" (smearing-edging) shoe out there. The katanas are great for edging, but not smearing.

I'm looking for new shoes too- I have Katanas and have definitely noticed they don;t smear too well on straight up friction (still feel good on "normal" slab). Would you recommend Muiras for friction as well? I'm considering buying a replacement pair of katana lace (my first pair is 1/2 size too small), and was looking at TC Pro for NC/North Georgia slab & long trad

Zappos has free returns. When I was searching for a new shoe, I would order several versions and sizes at once. Then return all the ones you don't want. The cost per shoe is about $5 more, but it is way cheaper than the amount of gas you'll use trying to find a store that has the shoe you want and the right size. I also have one of the most common men's size, so it was rare that a store had it in stock.

Luke R 84 wrote: I'm looking for new shoes too- I have Katanas and have definitely noticed they don;t smear too well on straight up friction (still feel good on "normal" slab). Would you recommend Muiras for friction as well? I'm considering buying a replacement pair of katana lace (my first pair is 1/2 size too small), and was looking at TC Pro for NC/North Georgia slab & long trad

Yes, Miuras are great on slab. I wear my street shoe size. If you go too tight in any shoe, they will hurt on slab. I have 6 different pairs of Miuras at home, it is the only shoe I wear now. Each one is numbered based on when I ordered it. So it helps me decide how stiff of a shoe I need. The higher the number the newer and stiffer they will be. I also have one pair sized down a half size for steep sport or bouldering. All are the lace-up version. The VCS looks more downturned than the lace-up, plus velcro doesn't work well with narrow feet.

TC Pro. Hands down

If you get the same size as the Mythos they will climb much better, but be less comfortable on multipitch.

All of the previous shoe recommendations are stupid. There is only one shoe you need for edging and slab climbing; Tenaya Masai. All others are inferior.

Hope!!! (Esperanza)

As has been said, Miuras are great NC shoes. I have several pairs. Just got a pair of Vapor Vs and I like them quite a bit. The techno is worth a look too, I have the older style and like them for long routes. Best shoe selection in the southeast is at Waterstone Outdoors at the New.

Tev wrote:TC PROS!!!! I used to climb in Mythos and loved them. However, the TC Pro blows them away. Edging and smearing are great, and with the P3 system insole support, your feet won't tire anywhere as fast as with the Mythos. Plus for resoling, send them to Yosemite Bumb. They did a FANTASTIC job with mine including the rand

+1

Look how beautiful it is. Look at it.

Brian Payst wrote:As has been said, Miuras are great NC shoes. I have several pairs. Just got a pair of Vapor Vs and I like them quite a bit. The techno is worth a look too, I have the older style and like them for long routes. Best shoe selection in the southeast is at Waterstone Outdoors at the New.

Well then, it just so happens I'm heading that way this weekend.

And Esperanza, I like your sales moxy. I stand in awe of my new yellow rubber overlords.