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The Golden Hammer
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.4 from 14
votes
Routes in Creek Side
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100 Proof S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Are There Bolts Up There? T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Art of the Deal, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Big Bro's Watchin' (Luebben Memorial Route) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Black Gold S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Brennivin T,S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Bro's Gold S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Christmas Spirits S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Clown Loach (temporary name) T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Crackside T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crackside Direct (var.) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Creek Dance S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Creek Nation S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Creekafixion S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Eternal Now S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Fish and Chips S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Fish Bowl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fool's Gold S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Furlough Day S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Golden Hammer, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Guppy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Labor Day S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Left of Corner S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Little Sister S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Macho Borracho S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Oyster Bar, The S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Playin' Hooky S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Project S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Psychotic Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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PTO S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rhett Wench S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rumpleminze aka Drillin' the Bush S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Shenanigans S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Solid Gold T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Spun Gold S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Under the Influence S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Unknown Big Black Flake T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Winterfest S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Your Brain on Drugs S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Eric Schmeer & Chip Nakagawa |
| Page Views: | 6,301 total · 49/month |
| Shared By: | AOSR on Oct 28, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
P1. Climb the first two pitches of Solid Gold in one long, fun slab pitch. Belay at the first large ledge stretching a single 70m or simul past two more bolts to a second large ledge, 5.8.
P2. Climb past the solid gold anchor, clip the first bolt of Spun Gold, and then traverse right on three bolts to the anchors on the face below the Golden Hammer roof, 5.8.
P3. Climb the face traversing left after a few moves on a slopey rail and then fire the roof through the crux to an amazing jug with a tricky mantle about 400 feet off the ground! 5.12-.
P4. Belay above the roof under a slightly overhanging arete. Climb fun, reachy big holds past a few bolts to a crux at the very top of the cliff band involving thin moves to a jug. After you gain the ledge, either move left to the Spun Gold anchor (recommended) or climb past one more bolt up and slightly right to another anchor. Cleaning is easy from either, 5.11.
P2. Climb past the solid gold anchor, clip the first bolt of Spun Gold, and then traverse right on three bolts to the anchors on the face below the Golden Hammer roof, 5.8.
P3. Climb the face traversing left after a few moves on a slopey rail and then fire the roof through the crux to an amazing jug with a tricky mantle about 400 feet off the ground! 5.12-.
P4. Belay above the roof under a slightly overhanging arete. Climb fun, reachy big holds past a few bolts to a crux at the very top of the cliff band involving thin moves to a jug. After you gain the ledge, either move left to the Spun Gold anchor (recommended) or climb past one more bolt up and slightly right to another anchor. Cleaning is easy from either, 5.11.
Location
There are tons of rap options from the top. The easiest is to rap from the Spun Gold anchor to the anchor on the Playin' Hooky slab, then to the ledge, and then one more to the awkward hanging belay on the first slab pitch.
A suggestion from a MP.com user: it is also possible to walk off to the north and wrap east around the ridge line to pick up the descent gully for Playin' Hooky/Black Gold. This walkoff is quicker than rapping the route and avoids congestion at the "large ledge" on a busy day.
A suggestion from a MP.com user: it is also possible to walk off to the north and wrap east around the ridge line to pick up the descent gully for Playin' Hooky/Black Gold. This walkoff is quicker than rapping the route and avoids congestion at the "large ledge" on a busy day.
Protection
About 20 draws or so to lead the first two pitches as one. A long sling or two are nice for the last belay.
Per Monty: A 70m rope is required to rappel from the top of the route to the anchor in the middle of the slab on Playin Hooky. Watch the ends! It is possible to rap the route with a single 60m if you tram in and use intermediate anchors
Per Monty: A 70m rope is required to rappel from the top of the route to the anchor in the middle of the slab on Playin Hooky. Watch the ends! It is possible to rap the route with a single 60m if you tram in and use intermediate anchors
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