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Rotating biner instead of a swivel

Original Post
acidbreeze · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 5

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Any thoughts? It's lighter, cheaper, and one less part in the system when hauling.

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872

Only rated to 6kn closed. grivel.com/products/rock/ca…. The bd swivel is rated to 26kn.

Moof · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 25

Be careful as to whether you are comparing WLL or breaking strength. WLL is usually 5x lower, basically throwing in a safety factor.
Edit: looks like what that is a swivel for ice tools, not appropriate for haul duty. My bad.

I use a Rock Exotica swivel biner for my bags. I have had no issues. They are not rated for any strength in bending at the swivel, so don't haul over a sharp edge, duh.

Swivaeye that I use

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

It looks to be a screw gate not an auto locker. I have found screw gates undo themselves with all the bouncing and spinning a bag suffers, so I won't use it without taping the gate up.

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

It better be bomber!

You're saving the weight and length of one biner. That's not enough for me to go with an item that isn't totally bomber/idiot proof.

acidbreeze · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 5

Thanks guys. I'll keep this biner for alpine light pack hauling and use swivel for big wall heavy hauls.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
acidbreeze wrote: Any thoughts? It's lighter, cheaper, and one less part in the system when hauling.
You can use those, just use a full strength one. The one pictured is not suitable for critical use. There are several companies that make full strength versions of what you have pictured and they will hold 22kN+. Petzl makes one, I forgot what they call it, but you can find it on their website. Look under their commercial section as I think it's marketed for rope access use. The one Petzl makes uses a triple action auto-locking gate, which is as secure as it gets.
Noah Haber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 78

In addition to everything that has been said above, the linked biner does not have bearings. That means it will almost certainly not swivel under load (i.e. with a haul bag).

It isn't a bad idea altogether, though, and it has been done (with bearings) by other companies. They aren't cheap. Efficient and reliable ball bearings are expensive.

rockexotica.com/product/alu…

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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