Using 8mm hangers with 1/4" button heads
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Hello MP, |
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Purely out of curiosity how are you planning on using these bolts? Is this for putting up new routes that will be climbed by others, or is this more for placing the odd aid bolt on obscure alpine routes? |
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Shelton, as you know I stalk your gear for sale post, |
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I haven't used the 8mm hangers with button heads but have placed a few hundred 1/4" button heads using the 3/8" (10mm) hangers. just go to the hardware store and get some washers that fit the 1/4" button heads. It's not the most elegant solution but it works. |
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Shelton Hatfield wrote: If you feel like chiming in to tell me why I shouldn't use 1/4" hardware, or to make sure that I won't be adding bolts to existing routes, or to tell me that if I have to ask a question like this that I have no business being near a drill- Thanks, but no thanks.Sorry man but you cant ask about a practice that's fairly universally accepted as unacceptable, respond with a "dont ask me what I am doing with the bolts" attitude and expect a straight answer. No one is going to lend advice if they think you might be creating a problem that someone else is going to have to fix in the future. Tell us more about your project and we might be willing to chime in. |
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20 kN wrote: Sorry man but you cant ask about a practice that's fairly universally accepted as unacceptable, respond with a "dont ask me what I am doing with the bolts" attitude and expect a straight answer. No one is going to lend advice if they think you might be creating a problem that someone else is going to have to fix in the future. Tell us more about your project and we might be willing to chime in.Fair enough. I'm hoping to use the bolts as single point belay/haul anchors on soon to be popular soft desert sandstone bigwall FAs. I figure someone else will replace them before they get too sketchy. We'll have a BOSCH with us, so I could go 1/2", but 1/4" are lighter, cheaper, and you get more holes per battery. end troll Okay, joking aside, I think it is reasonable for people to feel out my plans before they dispense advice. The only reason I am interested in 1/4" hardware is for ground up hand drilling on new routes. I will be the only one climbing above these little bolts. I will be pulling these bolts as soon as I can get the rope up. I have no interest in leaving "time bombs", and I have no interest in doing a job that someone else will have to come fix within my lifetime. Any 1/4" bolt I place will be promptly replaced with bomb-proof hardware, even if I don't think the route will be repeated. I appreciate everyone's input, and I appreciate that the climbing community is passionate about having quality fixed hardware. I feel the same and will continue to place quality hardware that I can take pride in. |
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20 kN wrote: a practice that's fairly universally accepted as unacceptableI didn't realize I've been doing something that is so universally unacceptable for so long... |
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I'm gonna follow my gut instincts and assume Mikey knows something or other about drilling on lead, ground up. |
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What you're probably after is hangers where you can tap the buttonhead through and have it stay without needing tape, washers, etc - that way the bolt doesn't fall out of the hanger so you can rack a bolt or two on your sling and not mess around with the bolt bag at a dicey stance. |
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Shelton Hatfield wrote: Fair enough. I'm hoping to use the bolts as single point belay/haul anchors on soon to be popular soft desert sandstone bigwall FAs. I figure someone else will replace them before they get too sketchy. We'll have a BOSCH with us, so I could go 1/2", but 1/4" are lighter, cheaper, and you get more holes per battery.Since that's the case, I would just get whatever standard 8mm or 10mm hanger and use a washer. Those 1/4" bolts are weak enough that you're never going to pull a washer over them and through the hanger on a fall. Some buttonheads have a wide enough head that when paired with an 8mm hanger, you might not even need a washer at all, especially since you're only using them temporarily. If you use a washer, find one that is made from thin stock so you wont draw the bolt from the hole as much. |
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Mikey Schaefer wrote: I didn't realize I've been doing something that is so universally unacceptable for so long...Owned |
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People die from others placing substandard bolts. |
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Those smc 2 nd gen stainless are perfect for button heads. |
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Thanks everyone for keeping the good info coming in. |