"Classic" Northeastern climbing areas?

I'll be visiting Philadelphia in about two weeks, and while I am there will be taking about a week or so to peep the Northeastern climbing scene. I've already got the Gunks, as well as the heavy hitters in NH (Cannon, Cathedral, Rumney), on my radar. But I'm looking to fill in the gaps with the other great areas that I have no idea about.

That being said, I'm not even sure that the place I listed are even "in" at this time of year (still snowy, seeping wet cracks, impassable approaches, etc.)??

Any information or input is appreciated

Thanks!!

P.S. I also don't have a partner lined up, so if you are free around the dates of April 16th-23rd and want to climb, don't hesitate to reach out!! I'm bringing a full rack and a 70m rope with me

Cannon can be sketchy early season. I've seen TV size blocks coming off the cliff in April. Whitney Gilman ridge on Cannon may be a little more protected as it is an arete, but it's still got some exposure to rock fall and is the most travelled route on cannon (read: busy).

I live in North Conway and will definitely have at least Monday and Friday to climb, maybe more.

WHITEHORSE! Do standard route or sliding board or cormier-magnuss.

Also, for bouldering, Pawtuckaway.

Shagg Crag in Maine

So what I am gathering is both Cathedral and Whitehorse are right outside of North Conway. Seems like a winner.

What about the Adirondacks? I've heard whispers of greatness...

Anyone want to throw down their top 5 climbs in the NE region??

Also to all, thanks for the input so far, much appreciated!!

Don't know what grades you climb but I'll throw a couple out there:

Recompense at Cathedral
Moby Grape on Cannon (but heed the warning above)
Fastest Gun at Poko
Predator at Rumney (if you're strong!)

Really there's TONS of good climbs at the Gunks, Whitehorse, and Cathedral.
With limited time I'd focus on those areas, maybe with a stop in Rumney if you're looking for sport.
Enjoy!.....I'll be in CO on business so can't rope up

top five at what grade?

For moderate routes at the NH areas, check out:

-Whitney-Gilman, Cannon
-Recompense, Cathedral
-Thin Air + Pine Tree Eliminate, Cathedral
-They Died Laughing, Cathedral
-Hotter Than Hell + Upper pitches of Inferno, Whitehorse
-Cormier-Magness, Whitehorse (do it in approach shoes, mellow and fun)
-Wavelength, Whitehorse

da toz wrote:What about the Adirondacks? I've heard whispers of greatness...

The ADK is an amazing place to climb! Over 3,000 routes and counting! It's still early season for most of the Northeast, so keep in mind a lot of areas (with the exception of probably the Gunks), are likely to be seeping and rock fall is always a concern. However there are plenty of cliffs that dry out quick to get a good taste of the climbing in the area!

The DEC has listed cliff closures for birds for:
~ Upper Washbowl
~ Poke-O (far left end still open)
~ Moss Cliff
~ Crane Mountain --Black Arches Wall

If you let the thread know what grades you'd like to max out at, I'd be happy to give some cliff and route recommendations.

In addition to the 'big' areas----Gunks, Rumney (for sport), North Conway, maybe the Adirondacks, there are a number of smaller, but still worthwhile areas that, depending on your route, you will pass quite close by while en route between these destinations, that could well be worth a day or at least a few hours of your time. For example the Connecticut traprock crags--Ragged Mountain is the best known, are not far off either I-91 or I-84, either likely routes of travel between the Gunks and the New Hampshire areas. A bit further north, Farley Ledge in Mass. is only a few miles from 91 and literally just off Route 2, the major east/west road through northern Mass. It is only a few minutes walk to the crag from the lot.The Bolton area in Vermont is another possibility, off I-89--the likely route between the Adirondacks and New Hampshire.

Another very worthwhile, and unique, New England area, though quite a bit further away, is Acadia National Park up in Maine featuring excellent granite climbing either right above the Atlantic--Otter Cliff and Great Head, or overlooking it a from a bit inland--the Precipice on Champlain Mtn. A really beautiful place in good weather.Enjoy your visit.

That timing in April is pretty tough. Many folks consider this to be shoulder season. You'll want to select routes that get sun and won't have too much seepage...which doesn't always lend itself to hitting up the classics.

The Gunks is often 10 degrees warmer than NH this time of year so I might suggest kicking off your trip there and waiting to make plans based around the weather forecast. It's easy to find Gunks routes with lots of sun exposure which will reduce the chances of them being wet. There are so many classics in the Gunks, I'm not sure where to begin...but below is a progression of must-do moderates:

Madame G's, 5.6
CCK, 5.7
Son of Easy O, 5.8
MF, 5.9
Ridiculissima, 5.10

For Gunks-style, sunny climbing, you could also check out Longstack Precipice in NH. I'd stay away from Cannon and not go too far out of my way to hit up Cathedral as many of the 'classic' climbs will probably be wet.

Perhaps I'm being too pessimistic about the weather...but I'm staring out of my window at piles of snow at the moment!

You will likely get rained out a few days so I would not try to hit too many areas in a week. Just the Gunks and the North Conway area have enough climbing for several lifetimes. I would climb the Gunks if its dry when you leave Philly since its real close. Try to hit it mid week if you can as the weekends are pretty packed there. Climb there until the weather turns bad then use the rain day to get to the North Conway area.

If the weather looks really horrible up there you could also go south from Philly and hit Seneca Rocks and the New River Gorge. That would be about the same amount of driving as going up to the Whites. It's not the NE scene but WV is real nice too and has lots of great climbing.

Torren wrote:Just the Gunks and the North Conway area have enough climbing for several lifetimes.

... Ya know, and the Adirondacks... but no one ever climbs there so definietly not worth mentioning :-P

Linnaeus wrote:Cannon can be sketchy early season. I've seen TV size blocks coming off the cliff in April. Whitney Gilman ridge on Cannon may be a little more protected as it is an arete, but it's still got some exposure to rock fall and is the most travelled route on cannon (read: busy).

I've seen refrigerator/Smart Car-sized blocks come off the Black Dike in April, and roll almost to the bottom of the talus field, i.e. right over the Whitney G approach. Be careful!

Check out Safe Harbor! It's not as "classic" as some of the other suggestions, but it is do-able as a day trip from Philadelphia ~1 1/2 hr drive. It's prime season over there...

The Delaware Water Gap might also be a good day trip from Philly...

mountainproject.com/v/safe-…
mountainproject.com/v/delaw…

Meanwhile further north...
- Farley (MA) -- Cool area sport/trad that should have dry stuff.
- Longstack Precipice (NH) -- Should be dry faster than lots of stuff in NH
- The Kancamagus Highway Crags (NH) -- Ask at IME if any are dry... Woodchuck?
- Humphrey's Ledge (NH) -- Next to Cathedral, a good bet when other stuff is wet.
- Echo Crag/Artists Bluff (NH) -- Near Cannon, might be a good option if you get to Cannon and its too wet or the rockfall is bad.

Alan Rubin wrote: Maybe the Adirondacks

I know this may start a fight but having lived in New Hampshire and climbing extensively in the Gunks I can say that the Adirondacks have by far the best climbing in the Northeast. "Maybe?" Al, you do realize that there are 3,300+ routes here right? And more are going in almost daily during rock season -the guidebook published just over a year ago is already 234 routes out of date, some of which are among the best routes around... no joke. I'm not saying that Gunks and North Conway climbing isn't awesome but there's more to do here.

That said Alissa Doherty has it right: April up here is tough. A week ago I was climbing in a T-shirt, right now it's snowing. Watch the weather if heading north and plan accordingly, the Gunks may be your option or if you're into avoiding the whole fee thing hit Seneca or the New River Gorge as Torren suggested.

As others have said if you give a grade range it would be easier to make recommendations.

Safe Harbor and Birdsboro are probably the closest if you're looking for day trips from Philly.

But be warned: They're choss piles, especially Birdsboro. Rock is breaking every day.

South Central PA has a solid bouldering scene if you're into that. Governor Stable and Mount Gretna are great places for some diabase bouldering. Also Haycock Mountain has some solid lines.

The best stuff you'll find has been mentioned already. Gunks, Daks, Rumney, White Horse, Cathedral... etc. NY/NH is where it's at.

Good luck, have fun!

da toz wrote: But I'm looking to fill in the gaps with the other great areas that I have no idea about.

If you are in fact looking for great areas, do not waste your time at Birdsboro. It's the only place I've climbed and had legitimate concern for my life. That whole place is X-rated!

So, Birdsboro is for the birds.

Safe harbor south has a FEW excellent climbs, hydroman and autumn arch are both personal favorites. That being said if you can go to North Conway, Rumney or the Gunks do so. Not sure how new hampshire's conditions are, but if it's a nice day in Philly, it's a nice day in the Gunks for the most part.

As for Birdsboro... It's under an hour away from Philly and that's about all that can be said for it.