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Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 888
RobertF · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 20

Proper Soul 5.14a on gear

youtube.com/watch?v=Q-oZXew…

Yer Gonna Die · · Cragville · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 175
Ray Lovestead · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 108

Sorry but I really think this Czech idea that using "no metal" is silly. They use carabiners, they use metal belay devices, where is the line drawn? It is like the Omish, who will use buttons, but zippers are out of the question. Silly.

I too can solo a 5.8 while putting fake gear in.

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525
Ray Lovestead wrote:Sorry but I really think this Czech idea that using "no metal" is silly. They use carabiners, they use metal belay devices, where is the line drawn? It is like the Omish, who will use buttons, but zippers are out of the question. Silly. I too can solo a 5.8 while putting fake gear in.
The line is pretty obvious, metal protection is different than belay devices and carabiners because it is in direct contact with the soft sandstone. As a result, in a fall it can damage the rock. The idea is that the soft knots will spread the load evenly, preventing damage to the rock.
Ray Lovestead · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 108

Oh that is pretty cool. And have you done said climbing in the Czech republic?

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525
Ray Lovestead wrote:Oh that is pretty cool. And have you done said climbing in the Czech republic?
I have (k)not. There was a nice segment in the film "The Sharp End" a few years back. Here's part of it on youtube, if you search around a bit you can find some more footage from the area. Pretty fascinating. I think there are some whippers on hard route falling on knots. Note that they also don't use chalk, also in an effort to preserve the rock.

youtube.com/watch?v=mg5LOLs…
Jon Banks · · Longmont, CO · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 226

Here's some Irish climbing for St. Patty's day

vimeo.com/56466581

ChrisN · · Morro Bay, CA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25

Damn, those irish climbers know how to climb trad.

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525
Ken Duncan · · Ft Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2004 · Points: 5,719
andrew thomas · · Orcas island · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 105
Glass Tupperware · · Atlanta · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 45
Big Red · · Seattle · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 940

Long, but one of the best alpinism videos I've watched.

youtube.com/watch?v=DhcpZHC…

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525

Fall around 7:15 is... large
youtube.com/watch?v=NxIhHb8…

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419
Jon Nelson · · Redmond, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 8,191
Nathanael wrote:Fall around 7:15 is... large youtube.com/watch?v=NxIhHb8…
Fantastic video. It's also not often the case that the belayer is in danger of getting washed away.
Ken Duncan · · Ft Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2004 · Points: 5,719
Eli Buzzell · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 5,507
Systematic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 317

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