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Grade VI Western U.S. Climbs without Aid....

Original Post
Ty Falk · · Huntington, VT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 280

Anyone have any good recommendations for moderate grade VI alpine climbs without Aid. Maybe up to 5.10 rock....I have done the Grand traverse in the Tetons and I am looking for something similar but maybe just more consistent technical climbing. I posted a thread in the Discuss MountainProject.com forum about a way to search by commitment grades but have not got any responses....thanks!!

Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,577

Evolution traverse is grade V, 5.9

Ty Falk · · Huntington, VT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 280

Cool... good suggestion MP is ratting it a Grade VI. Any others out there you guys can think of...

Cory B · · Fresno, CA · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 2,577

If you link up enough peaks it becomes grade VI. Full Pallisade traverse is likely VI

blakeherrington · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 1,113

You seem really hung up on the "grade VI" thing, which probably isn't a very productive or valuable method of figuring out how big a given route is, or how long it will take YOU. The whole III, IV, V, etc system is pretty vague and not very meaningful. A long ridge scramble that crosses a trail or easy bail point then re-starts with more scrambling or climbing isn't really growing in terms of commitment to the route.

Are you really just looking for the longest moderate route (5.9/.10-) in the western US?

("Maybe up to 5.10 rock, no aid")

How about Crack of Delight to Casual to Forrest Finish on Long's Peak?
In the PNW try the N. Face of Johannesburg Mtn or the Southern Pickets Traverse.

Or head to Canada where there are bigger mountains in droves.

Ty Falk · · Huntington, VT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 280

^ Its not that " Grade" is of concern but I 'am looking for something with consistent technical climbing that has a true alpine feel and the commitment grade seams to best represent that although I understand that it is not a perfect system for grading...What is though however though....Thanks for the route suggestions!!

Ty Falk · · Huntington, VT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 280

thanks Seth!! Great Suggestions!! That southwest ridge looks amazing!!

Greg Malloure · · Prescott Az · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 20

You should dig into the North Cascades there are a couple of really big ridges that only have a handful of ascents.

Mongo Ridge of Mount Fury. 5.10 VI

alpenglow.org/nwmj/07/071_M…

Ty Falk · · Huntington, VT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 280

Greg.. the Pickets look amazing. Ever since I read the Mountain Profile in Alpinist 47 from Forest McBrian about the Pickets I have been wanting to go so bad....

Dobson · · Butte, MT · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 215
Ty Falk wrote:Cool... good suggestion MP is ratting it a Grade VI. Any others out there you guys can think of...
We spent three days on route. At that pace, the climb is mostly third and fourth class. Probably only pitched out a dozen pitches. I'd say it's a bit more consistent technical scrambling than the Grand Traverse. Definitely more distance traveled car-to-car (36miles?). It's not really committing; you're always a quick descent back to the JMT.

I'd vote for getting your choss on in the Canadian Rockies. Long, committing routes with minimal difficult free climbing.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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