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Static Line for Top Roping

Original Post
Jeff Harmon · · New Jersey · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 260

Okay or not okay?

Note: a given is understood that copious amounts of slack plus a fall is bad bad bad.

With attentive belaying, I'm thinking this is okay. You tell me.

r m · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

I'm happy top roping on static, though would prefer semistatic(1)

1) en1891 beal-services.info/anglais/… - notice the ff1 fall testing and ff0.3 max impact force test.

Jeff Harmon · · New Jersey · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 260

This is what I have. Used for haul line. But considering for TR.

ems.com/sterling-superstati…

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Never had a problem with it. Note that if you're belaying at the bottom, as most folks prefer, even a fall at the top doesn't generate a large fall factor. And if the crux is just off the ground, a static can be the key to avoiding an ankle injury. Heavy climbers know what I'm talking about.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Would basically be like climbing at the gym...

Limpingcrab DJ · · Middle of CA · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,055

I like it better than a TR with dynamic ropes

Chalk in the Wind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 3
Jeff0 wrote:With attentive belaying, I'm thinking this is okay. You tell me.
That's the key. How much do you trust the belayer?
Jeff Harmon · · New Jersey · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 260

I am actually the belayer. :)

I want to set up two TR setups for my son and nephew. I'll be the only belayer. But I want to set up my dynamic line and my static so we have some options.

So I trust the belayer implicitly.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Depends on what you are top roping and how well the person belays. I have seen some really bad belayers let some people take 20ft+ fall on top rope.

But it still comes down to one thing. How much is your life worth? Is it worth risking 200$ to die?

Kyle Edmondson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 250

Go for it. This is a standard set up in the gym. And, saving $200 to risk your life may be one of the more ridiculous posts I've seen here. A decently attentive belayer and this is totally safe.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
Kyle Edmondson wrote:Go for it. This is a standard set up in the gym. And, saving $200 to risk your life may be one of the more ridiculous posts I've seen here. A decently attentive belayer and this is totally safe.
You know the number of people who die every year from a 1 in 100000 chance of something to happen? Sure it is probably going to be fine but all it takes is 1 mistake and you are dead. Why risk it for 200$?
Kedron Silsbee · · El Paso · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 0

First because it's not even obvious that it's more dangerous with the static rope. Second even if the increased risk of death really were 1/100,000, it doesn't seem totally unreasonable to think that this is actually not worth $200. You get about 25,000 days to live, so a 1/100,000 chance of death robs you of an expected 1/4 day. If an extra $200 makes one of those days twice as good, it doesn't seem like such a bad bet. It's not obvious to me that a 1/100,000 chance isn't worth spending $200 to mitigate, but it doesn't seem like a clear-cut case that it is either.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
ViperScale wrote: You know the number of people who die every year from a 1 in 100000 chance of something to happen? Sure it is probably going to be fine but all it takes is 1 mistake and you are dead. Why risk it for 200$?
This calculation also implies that each individual life is worth $20 million, which seems kind of high for many of us on MP.
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Sounds solid to me less people at the crag go for it.

Jeff Harmon · · New Jersey · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 260

ladies and gentlemen....let's all take a breath, step out of the circle...yada yada.

We're talking about top roping with a static line that actually has 6% elongation. I didn't think it was an issue, and most have confirmed that. Again, attentive belaying is important but tell me when it's not right... :)

I think we'll all be fine. Cheerio gang.

J

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

Elongation indeed. I believe some folks think static rope is a steel cable.

I've seen more injuries due to stretch (NOT SLACK) using a dynamic rope to TR than I have ever seen - or even heard of* - injuries due to a jarring catch on a static.

  • I've never heard of a single "jarring catch" top rope injury on a static rope.
eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

Its fine safety wise, but it might be a bit less than comfortable if the kid takes a large fall (like a little bit of slack + a dyno). I'd make sure whatever harnesses you have for the kids are really comfy. Other than that, have fun and make sure the little guys have the time of their life!

Jeff Harmon · · New Jersey · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 260

Yeah. My kid doesn't dyno...ever. Totally methodical. Unreal actually. He loves it. Weve now installed a few holds and a bolt hanger on his bed for practice. :)

Peter BrownWhale · · Randallstown, MD · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 21
Ted Pinson wrote:Would basically be like climbing at the gym...
This should have been the end of this thread: case closed
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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