Miura // katana

Looking for next pair of shoes, have completely worn out the miura vcs I've been using for past few seasons. Loved the sensitivity the shoe had, and just picked up a pair of lace up katanas in the same size. I've heard they're similar shoes (both having p3), but they climbed completely differently. The katana felt like it had no sensitivity. Is this necessarily a function of climbing with a new shoe or when broken in or is this a difference between the two models?

Asking because I have a friend who's offered to buy the katanas. What's the consensus here?

That's funny you say that you like the Miuras for their sensitivity, because that's probably their greatest weakness. What do you mean by "sensitivity," exactly? The katana is designed to be a middle ground shoe between ultra stiff/edgy shoes like the Miuras and soft, sensitive shoes like a Mythos or Moccasym. Maybe you're just not used to the feel? They are similar shoes but the Miuras are considerably more aggressive. Did you mean "precise"?

If you have been wearing the exact same shoes for several years having a brand-new pair is going to feel wildly different no matter what type of shoe you get. I have both the katanas and the muiras. Once the katanas are broken and you will love them. Do they fit well on your foot? If so keep them.

Ted Pinson wrote:That's funny you say that you like the Miuras for their sensitivity, because that's probably their greatest weakness. What do you mean by "sensitivity," exactly? The katana is designed to be a middle ground shoe between ultra stiff/edgy shoes like the Miuras and soft, sensitive shoes like a Mythos or Moccasym. Maybe you're just not used to the feel? They are similar shoes but the Miuras are considerably more aggressive. Did you mean "precise"?

Older Miura vs with xsgrip rubber were/are a lot softer and more sensitive than newer ones with edge rubber(I have both and both are pretty well broken in, the older ones have been resoled with grip2).

I would agree that the katanas lack sensitivity but for me fits in with my quiver. At first I didn't like it but after I got used to them I just put my toe where I want it and forget about it. No sensitivity needed: almost crampon like.

Thanks for the feedback guys, I think Don captured the feeling well, that Katanas 'feel' like hitting a hold with a crampon. In comparison it 'feels' like the Miura transmits a lot more tactile feedback to your feet. And they are older Miuras with the xsgrip rubber. Damn. What would you guys recommend that would be similar to this supple aggressive feel? I really enjoy that soft/tactile feel in a climbing shoe and would say this would be a priority to find again.

Do a good bit of bouldering/gym climbing on weekdays and Gunks overhangs on the weekends

Aaah, that explains it. Yes, with grip, I could definitely see the Miura being a much more sensitive shoe. I'd imagine you would feel the same way about the new Miuras as you do about the Katanas, unfortunately.

If you're willing to go a little extreme, the Genius is probably one of the more sensitive shoes on the planet, although it's a VERY different shoe from a Miura. Have you tried 5.10s? You might like the Anasazi VCS or Lace (pinks), as Stealth C4 is pretty soft/sensitive. Or, depending on your foot profile, you might like the white Miuras, which come pre-equipped with grip...or you could even see if it's possible to get the bananas with grip.

If you take a 43 or smaller you can get the women's Miura VS which is softer and comes with Grip2 rubber. I have both the men's and women's and they feel vastly different.

The Katana Lace is a great shoe though, give them a chance...

I'm confused. I climb in both, and they are vastly different shoes. Think of the Katana lace as a tc pro with a solution toe. I use it on steep pocketed routes, both sport and trad. Does not edge as precisly as the TC, but that is a function of the downturned toe.
The miura is, on the other hand, in my use, a more aggressive sport shoe. More sensitive, but not multi-pitch.
¢.02

The newer Sportiva slippers might be worth a try, pythons or skwamas. I haven't tried either but they are both aggressive looking slippers on the p3 platform with grip2 rubber.