Type: Sport, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: Andy Riley equipped by Tyler Hoffart
Page Views: 721 total · 7/month
Shared By: Andy Riley on Dec 27, 2015
Admins: Andy Riley

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is the extension to Slingshot Monkey. Tyler Hoffart bolted the line and first hypothesized that it was in the 5.13- range in terms of difficulty. The breakdown of the route is like this, 70 feet of consistent 5.12-, fighting through an overhang and technical terrain to a good rest (top of Slingshot Monkey), a 10 foot slopey v5 right into a 15 foot crimpy, reachy v5/6 with a not-great rest between. then you have 3 bolts of about 11+ reachy climbing on jugs and little knobs, then three bolts of victory 5.9 to the anchor (don't blow it). Adds up to a muscley 140ish feet of climbing. If you climb the full line in one pitch, I would recommend extending all of the draws on the first pitch to keep rope drag to a minimum at the top. It takes two lowers/rappels to get to the ground from the top. With a 70 meter rope I had my belayer lower me to the first anchor and then I rapped to the ground from there; This option is probably not possible with a 60 meter rope. If you have a 60 just do two rappels to the ground. Anyway, somebody else do this thing!

Tyler on establishing this line: 

"I got pretty obsessed toward the end of this last week and managed, in one day, to add another full two-pitch route that I’m calling Slingshot Monkey to this tall wall, with this being the tallest of the 3 two-pitchers. Although I had absolutely NO time to even try this route, I would say it has a strong chance at being the first 13a in the area, based on how hard the moves felt on Homage (aka Bridge Bomb Baby) compared to getting stances on Slingshot Monkey and cleaning it all up and trying moves. What will especially make this line difficult is the highly-sustained, second pitch. Pump your face off power moves and a spicy crackish finish. This route completed my journey on this big wall (except the Buddha adventure) and added to the 2 other two-pitch routes on the wall, the excellent 5.10+ 3 Bros and the 5.12cish Homage (aka Bridge Bomb Baby)." 

Location Suggest change

The extension to the furthest right route on Monk's Life wall.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts, Carabiners at the anchor.

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