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La Sportiva Muira toebox

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 9,954

Seb. Seriously? All you have to do is try the shoes on or look at them in person to see they are different.

Go ahead, post stock photos all day long and keep talking out of your ass.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Josh Janes wrote:Seb. Seriously? All you have to do is try the shoes on or look at them in person to see they are different. Go ahead, post stock photos all day long and keep talking out of your ass.
Great, your the type of person who sees personal experience as better than numbers or hard facts aren't you?

My completely fucked miuras.
I would say i have had used the original miuras plenty. Have only tried on the velcro though, brand new they are about the same.
Also yes i would agree with you they are different, one has velcro the other has laces, the laced one is also narrower.
Jake Thomson · · Yosemite · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 5

jesus christ what the hell did you do to those shoes bro

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Soulless Ginger wrote:jesus christ what the hell did you do to those shoes bro
I wore them to the point where i wore through the plastic mid sole, and then the leather. I'm in the middle of trying to resole the toe but i have yet to get around to it.
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Seriously? You're thinking of getting those resoled?? Don't waste your time.

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Ted Pinson wrote:Seriously? You're thinking of getting those resoled?? Don't waste your time.
Not professionally, I have a sheet of vibram XS grip that i was going to epoxy on.
Hiro Protagonist · · Colorado · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 290

Can I hijack this thread; I found it while searching for toebox.

On the current market, what would you say are the moderately aggressive shoes with the widest toebox? Just looking for some directional hints so I can go try them... The various Sportiva shoes I've had are pretty narrow for my pinky toe. Except for the Nago, but that's not in the right class.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Katana laces, maybe? Can't remember if they're wider or narrower in the toes (think the Miura might be wider), but they're probably the best moderately aggressive/all around shoes. Super comfortable, but edge well because they have the same P3 and similar downturned toe as the Miuras.

By the way, be careful using stock internet photos to compare actual design specs, Seb. Speaking of the KL...these are all supposedly the same shoe:







Real deal:


Also, the Miura has a narrower toebox, so the Katana would probably be a great option.
Jake Thomson · · Yosemite · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 5

my buddy has wide feet and says the pinks are very accommodating.

Jake Thomson · · Yosemite · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 5
caughtinside wrote:I've got wide feet and I mostly wear scarpa vapor Velcro, scarpa boostic, and 5.10 pink (not aggressive downturn but stiff and precise)
the pinks are mildly aggressive which is what he had asked for
rock gumby · · leduc ab · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0

i have the lace ups and have the same issue-though im not minding-there is alot of room above the toes but they do edge amazing so i dont really mind-its just weird but oh well-i bought them comfortable and actually wear them w socks for longer routes[i'm oldish] and tired of killing my feet so i welcome the extra room

Arlo F Niederer · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 515

I had the same problem with fit, but the other way around.

My first Miuras were the lace ups which hurt a bit when I first bought them. However, after they broke in, they became more tolerable. I don't send 5.14 so I have little need for excruciating (or as Steve Martin would say - "cruel shoes").

The lace ups were about due for a resole and REI had Miura VCS on sale for only $130 instead of the usual $160. I ordered the same size thinking that I would be fine, and sent in the lace ups for resoling.

Took the brand new VCS's to Shelf Road and they were EXCRUCIATING! Absolutely killed my toes. My fingers and arms had a bit of pump, but I wanted to do a few more climbs. I put the VCS's back on and started up a climb - but my toes hurt so much I couldn't stand the pain so I called it a day!

I thought about returning them but the lace ups took a while to get tamed, so I persevered. I used the VCS in the gym and they slowly became tolerable. They are uncomfortable so I take them off after every pitch - which is how many people fit them anyways.

The VCS are great for edging and pockets, edging a little better than the laceups but painful in jamcracks. The lace ups still edge well but don't hurt so much in cracks.

Just for reference - Outdoor Gear Lab rated the Katanas better than both forms of Miuras in September of 2015. My experience with the Miuras is consistent with their ratings.

So, if you are getting both lace Miuras and Miura VCS be sure to try them both on - the fit was totally different for me.

Hiro Protagonist · · Colorado · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 290

Thanks for the replies. I climb in Katanas (lace) now and yes, they are comfortable enough, even in a small size. They climb hard enough for my climbing. So may I refine my question - instead of getting a second pair of Katanas, can you recommend a similar toebox shoe from one of the other manufacturers that I might try? Something at least as aggressive, but a little more wouldn't be unwelcome. Thx.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Hmm. You might like the Pink Anasazis, they've been on my list for a while...but I think they'd actually be a bit less aggressive (albeit, stickier) than a Katana. Have you looked at the 5.10 Verdon?

Doug Lintz · · Kearney, NE · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 1,196
Ted Pinson wrote:Hmm. You might like the Pink Anasazis, they've been on my list for a while...but I think they'd actually be a bit less aggressive (albeit, stickier) than a Katana. Have you looked at the 5.10 Verdon?
I agree with your suggestion regarding the Pinks. As for the Verdons, they do have a nice wide toebox but I wouldn't consider them aggressive at all. I only use mine for vertical limestone, which is perfect for their edging abilities.
Arlo F Niederer · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 515

Hiro:

Since everybody has different feet, the best bet is to try on different shoes of the type which fits your feet the best.

I see you live in Colorado - go to Neptune mountaineering in Boulder and try on shoes - they have a huge selection. You could call ahead and speak to one of their staff that is knowledgeable about shoes.

Bent Gate Mountaineering in Golden also has a good selection, and its less than 30 minutes from Neptune mountaineering. Between the two, you could try on everything you would be interested in.

Good luck.

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974

Rock and Resole is selling shoes now too. They seem to have a wide selection, including, I believe, some uncommon brands.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

So I'll hijack too...

I liked the fit of the 5.10 Pinks because of the width of the shoe. My problem was the heel had too much room. Too much dead space around my heel. Did anybody come across this too? My boot size is 12 and my Pinks were 11s. Any other 5.10 or size difference you guys would recommend?

Jake Thomson · · Yosemite · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 5
Bill Kirby wrote:So I'll hijack too... I liked the fit of the 5.10 Pinks because of the width of the shoe. My problem was the heel had too much room. Too much dead space around my heel. Did anybody come across this too? My boot size is 12 and my Pinks were 11s. Any other 5.10 or size difference you guys would recommend?
yes, pinks from what i understand have been notorious for their shitty heels since conception.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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