All Locations > New Mexico > New Mexico, oth… > Last Chance Canyon > Fossil Wall

3 Feet From An Orgy - a.k.a. Fossil Fling

Name: 3 Feet From An Orgy - a.k.a. Fossil Fling
Rating: 2.9

5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in Fossil Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	3 Feet From An Orgy - a.k.a. Fossil Fling S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Dirty Bones S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Flight Of The Trilobite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Fossil Fuel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Separation Of Cherts And Plate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Surfin The Reef S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	1,876 total · 10/month
Shared By:	Craig Childre on Feb 1, 2008
Admins:	Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Sustained climbing for the first four bolts with great movemet. The crux comes after the 2nd bolt. Technical footwork get you past the thin crimpers to the better holds at the 3rd bolt. Work left, get up on the shield shelf, hitting some more small pockets. Finally reaching the rail that slants to the right, pause and slow down your breathing. A few more easy moves and clip the chains.

Location

On the ledge, look for the belayer bolt, that leads up the underside of the roof and up.

Protection

Bolts, Chain anchor. Stick clip the first unless your have it dialed. The wise belayer will stay tethered into the bolt to aviod getting drug off the ledge, and especially if the climber falls before the first bolt.

Beta Notes

This route can get wet and slick after it rains, especially when it is cold. Problem is the sloper up between second and third bolts that seems especially prone to slickness.

Ratings Notice

I loaded this route as a 12a. Actual rating is still in dispute. Originally, it was commonly referred to as an 5.11a, but that really seems soft. My source rated it as a 5.12a, and I have yet to meet someone else who has sent it. Climb it, let me know if you think this is too far out of line.