The Future of Fixed Anchors II

Who's all going? So far 26 signed up on FB. Anyone from the forums going?

Yup! I will be there as a panelist concentrating mostly on hand drilling and how to remove unusual bolts. Check out this rebolting project at:

climbing.com/news/rebolting…

Hi, I don't do FB so I don't know whats up, but I would like to make a suggestion to all folks do do the good work of fixing old climbs.

Please leave a few of the historical relics in place for people to look at. Some of those old pieces have a story to tell and it would be best to leave some in place.
For example... In Bruce's work at the Pinnacles wouldn't it be nice to sit at a hanging stance, on new modern stuff, and hang your boots on one of those bolts with the "RK" stamped on it?
On Castle Rock Spire there is a bolt that Ax Nelson placed with his own hands with a home made hanger that he made... Marked "AN" .... you don't need it today because we have 3" pieces and I made the anchor with gear, his bolt, placed over 60 years ago, it is a thing of beauty and has been sitting there forever.
That bolt deserves some respect and getting chopped out and maybe hauled off to a climbing museum would be a shame.

Just my .02

Work/Volunteering with the trail guides at the rendezvous has it shaping up for me to only get to see about 2/3rds of the Saturday demo portion but hopefully I can get off for the friday discussion part aswell.

20 kN wrote:Who's all going? So far 26 signed up on FB. Anyone from the forums going?

^ yeah, is there a link to this event? Sounds interesting...

Guy,

we have been doing that were it was appropriate and safe to do so. When we were rebolting on the South Yak, we left Dave Hammack's original 1951 anchor bolt and also the lone bolt they placed to do the Tyrolean over to North Yak. We did, however, replace the protection bolt Hammack placed with new SS hardware.

If the community is going to have a conference about fixed anchors, there should also be time devoted to the negative impacts - to both climbers (esp climbers not attending the event) and the environment - of mega gatherings like the Red Rocks Rendezvous, Creekster, etc.

Bruce... thank you for doing that.

In my opinion we don't need to bulldoze all of the old artifacts away.

so this is a access fund deal.... meth