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big wall system for 3 people

Original Post
eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

I'm sure this has already been discussed, but I didn't manage to find anything with a quick search, so here goes.

I was reading the falcon guide on bigwall climbing and got an idea from one of the hauling systems it depicted. It centers around making hauling easier by having one person counter-weight the haul so the hauler can use a 1:1

Intuition tells me that something about this won't work or will be too much fuster cluck but I can't imagine what or why.

Here a link to a description

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
supertopo.com/climbers-foru…

mountainproject.com/v/big-w…

Check Fishes site too, I think there might be something on there.

here: fishproducts.com/howto/ht3p…
Matt Carroll · · Van · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 249

I just did a wall last weekend with 3 people and it went incredibly smoothly. Here is what we did:

Leader sets off with lead line, haul line, and second dynamic rope. upon completion of the pitch Leader fixes both dynamic lines and sets up the haul. Once the haul is ready the bags are release. The two followers jug their own line, one cleaning gear, the other with a straight shot to the belay. During this time the leader space hauled the pig. We made really fast work of the hauling using this sequence.

We would then rotate the lead after the pitch.

Stephen Bittner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 325

From what I've seen this is the most efficient 3 person wall technique.

Leading in blocks, the leader sets off tailing a "zip line".

Once she reaches the anchor, she pulls up the haul line up via the zipline and fixes it for one of the followers to jug without having to clean gear.

She then pulls up all the slack on her lead line, fixes that to the new belay and sets off lead soloing while the second follower jugs the newly fixed lead line.

Once the first follower reaches the new anchor they will haul the pig and put the leader back on a proper belay.

During this time the second follower is jugging the fixed lead line and organizing all the gear so that they can attach it to the leaders zip line when they reach the anchor. The leader then pulls the gear up and now has her entire rack again, minus whatever she has already put in on the current pitch.

Repeat until the change over.

Here is an article that describes the process-

climbing.com/skills/tech-ti…

Matt Carroll · · Van · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 249

Stephen's described method would be faster, but more prone to complications. If the pig gets hung up there isn't anyone near to coerce it, unless one follower jugs crazy fast the other cleans super slow. The system you use is far less important then just being efficient and dialed with it. For most of us, keeping the time reasonable is achieved by not having huge complications. IMO Once you get good at all the shit that has to happen on a wall, the system can be refined to cut time here and there.

mucci · · sf ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 655

I would declare a mutiny against the captain if told I had to lead with 3 ropes.

Goddamn mutiny.

Short fixing with 3 is a good start. Less time the team is near the beers the better.

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981

Why would you carry three ropes when you can tie two ropes together and pull the third to the anchor when you reach the belay? Or even a lighter tag line with the second and third rope tied to it.

You put three full sized ropes on me and tell me to lead and I'm going to make sure my ledge is setup above yours and have an "accident" during my morning bm.

Mutiny I tell ya!

Matt Carroll · · Van · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 249

Hahah the elders have spoken!

John Shultz · · Osaka, Japan · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 50

Here is my take on the whole thing (amazingly almost 11,000 views!):

rockclimbing.com/Articles/B…

This gives the guy jugging the free line a greater margin of safety, especially when it is hard to see any suspect edges.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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