Current approach shoes?

Pretty much a n00b, been just wearing what I use for day hiking (Inov-8 Trailroc 235). Actually really had no complaints on those, other than the lack of durability and the fit is a little loose to be precise on anything too sketchy. I did get 2 years with a good amount of hiking and climbing days so can't complain.

If I was inventing an approach shoe it would basically take the best parts of those:
-ultralight
-low bulk
-zero drop
-heel loop

and add:
-a taller, tougher rand
-strategically placed sticky rubber

Maybe I'm not actually looking for an approach shoe and should just get minimalist runners again? Anything out there that I'm missing that I should look at?

Maybe la sportiva xplorers? I have guide tennies which do not fit your bill at all haha. Nonetheless I would reccomend them to a friend.

I find approach shoes take a beating, espically if you climb in them as well. Jamming cracks etc wears on them somewhat heavily, which usually doesn't play well with ultralight.

Edit to add that my favorite attribute of approach shoes is being able to climb in them. For a long ridge or alpine climb never having to change your shoes and being comfortable all day is awesome.

You might like the Evolv Cruzer. It doesn't work for me because it's too low volume (I also use the Guide Tennies), but it sounds like it matches your criteria reasonably well.

Stephen Waud wrote:Pretty much a n00b, been just wearing what I use for day hiking (Inov-8 Trailroc 235). Actually really had no complaints on those, other than the lack of durability and the fit is a little loose to be precise on anything too sketchy. I did get 2 years with a good amount of hiking and climbing days so can't complain. If I was inventing an approach shoe it would basically take the best parts of those: -ultralight -low bulk -zero drop -heel loop and add: -a taller, tougher rand -strategically placed sticky rubber Maybe I'm not actually looking for an approach shoe and should just get minimalist runners again? Anything out there that I'm missing that I should look at?

I'm in the same boat. Would love to have a minimalist trail runner with a sheet of sticky rubber on the bottom for those long traverses that also involve a lot of milage to get in/out. So far I haven't been able to find anything besides going the DIY route. Current approach shoes are pretty horrible to run distance in and even the "sticky" trail runners seem to have large lugs that compromise climbing ability (La Sportiva Mutant for example).

I've used the La Sportiva Raptors to approach and scramble in the Tetons. They are obviously great for the trails, but they merit changing into climbing shoes when the grade goes above 5.4. and yea, the big lugs are annoying for edging, but the smear ok.

I switched to the guide tennies last summer; they walk ok (you couldn't pay me to run in them) and they climb like a climbing shoe: I've led and been comfy up to 5.8, 5.9 in a pinch.

Really depends on your goals; tons of miles, minimal roped climbing, then running shoes. Moderate miles, lots of easier roped climbing, guide tennies or the like. Trying to be really fast/running, don't get approach shoes.

are approach shoes worth buying?

Rich zz wrote:are approach shoes worth buying?

I've thought about getting some, then passed because my flip flops are working out pretty well.

I've had a pair of Scarpa Crux canvas for about a year. I wear them 4-5 times a week both around town and for their intended use - approaching the crag.

I like them a lot. I crank the laces on the approach for scrambling, keep them loose and comfy when belaying. The rubber is a noticeable improvement compared to regular hiking boots.

My sandals stay stowed until the end of the day, so I can only compare the approach shoes to trail shoes and hiking boots.

Pros - for the approach to the crag, they are better than trail shoes (more rugged) and hiking boots (more flexible, better grip).

Cons - The grippy rubber wears noticeably faster than ruber on regular tennis shoes or hiking boots.

I wore these all of last season and expect to get another year out of them before thinking about replacing them. Not bad for the price in my opinion.

The new Scarpa Iguana approach shoes fit most of the OP's criteria. They're already online , but won't actually ship for another month or so.

As a Scarpa athlete, I've been climbing in them a bit this spring, and find them to be adequate runners, and really excellent climbers.

Running, they're pretty minimal, right around zero drop (not sure exactly). Great for steep rocky peak-bagging, but my feet would get sore on ultra-enduro runs.

Climbing, they've got super sticky rubber and a nice stiff toe rand. The toe is narrow enough for some pretty technical jamming, and the laces extend all the way down the foot for a good tight fit.

Clipped to my harness, they're lightweight (300g/shoe in sz 42) and compressible, with a burly heel loop.

Anyway, I got them for free, so take this review with a grain of salt.. But I know I've found my new favorite approach/scrambling shoe.

Scrambling on the Yellow Spur:

Scarpa Iguanas

Oh yeah, just read the other posts complaining about the over-sized lugs on some approach/running shoes. Agreed, that can definitely compromise a shoes climbing ability. The Iguanas have a relatively smooth sole, and a solid chunk of climbing rubber in the front for edging and smearing.

Here's a close-up showing the soles, also from Yellow Spur:

iguanas

(sorry again for the sponsor spray...)

Thanks Scott! Those look awesome. How do you size em?

And thanks everyone else for the replies. Definitely seems to be use case specific. I'm a new crappy climber so mostly looking at something that will make 4th class scrambly approaches and descents easier, not looking to actually climb 5th in em.

Basically I just need a new set of mountain shoes for the season and trying to gather some info before I fall back into what I know.

I actually sized my Iguanas pretty tight. 43 is my standard climbing shoe size, but I went with 42 in the Iguana so that they'd climb better. But if you're mostly using them for approaching, maybe just go with your normal size.

Also, the Iguana is a really lightweight shoe, and probably sacrifices some durability and support to achieve that. If weight isn't a huge concern, consider the Gecko, Crux, or Zen Pro.

Good luck,
Scott

A good bet would be the merrell trail ultra resoled and re randed with sticky rubber, will be doing it to mine when i wear out the tread.

I'll put a vote in for the Adidas Terrex Solos. I've run the Grand Canyon and climbed 5.9 in them. They've got Stealth, so they're sticky. If you want a waterproof version they make a different model with GTX.

Check out the new La Sportiva TX2. I just picked a pair up and they're freaking awesome. They meet all your criteria I think

You could also get some high top converse esque shoes and then resole them.

I've been using the Iguanas now since they came out. I sized mine up a half size for running comfort and they still climb very well. They would not be my first choice as a pure running shoe, but for running and scrambling, they are great. They are holding up remarkably well after quite a few flatirons and trips up various alpine scrambles. It took me a bit of experimenting with insoles to get the running/scrambling mix that I wanted. I ended up with a half rock-plate glued onto a factory insole. This keeps the heel low, while still providing a bit more sharp-rock protection than the factory insole.

Adidas Terrex Solos sound like they would work for you well. Mine have done very well for me and handle easy climbing/approach as well as aid climbing. Fairly light, though the mesh can let a lot of dirt in if the trail is dusty.

Also really digging the new Five Ten Access. They weight a tad more, but are more trail ready than the Guide Tennies that I use for more burley approaches that require a lot of jamming or climbing on small edges.