Analyse This Anchor

Did some tests because I was bored.

1)Back-clipping can definitely result in twisted draws like that. I've seen it when stick clipping (can be a real pain in the ass to not back clip when stick clipping), and I managed to recreate that twist and draw orientation by back-clipping 1 of the draws.

2)This doesn't explain how that right bolt biner managed to become faced the wrong direction, pressing on rock (bad). It's possible that the back-clipping somehow caused the biner to rotate, but not likely. More likely is that the climber did not clip opposite and opposed and intentionally clipped that way because it was easier due to the rock angle. Either way, he should NOT have left it like that.

I was told that the hangers had rap. Rings. You can see the one on the left the one on the right must be behind the beaner... maybe the rap ring is assisting in the direction of that top right beaner.

Hmm...in that situation, I would say that clipping the rap rings is preferable to the setup in this picture. Chances are they were steel and would not suffer any additional wear, and it would be much safer than having biners lying dangerously across rock and not having them opposite & opposed.

nbrown wrote:Those look like Fixe-rap-hangers. 'Biners will almost always be oriented like that (nose-hooking the rock) if you clip with the gate facing the rock and could cause the 'biner to break. This is due to the angle at which the hangers are bent. Just as with clipping most pins, the solution is to clip with the gate facing out. Or in this case, simply clip the rings -- that has the extra advantage of preventing unnecessary 'biner gouging on the sharp hangers as well.

Good catch. Looking at it closer it looks like you are right about the hangers imo

Ted Pinson wrote:My best guess is that he back clipped one (or both) of them. THAT is of bigger concern, because he either A) didn't notice, or B) thought it was ok. Neither scenario is great.

I'm struggling to picture a situation where back-clipping a two-bolt, two-draw anchor is relevant. Back clipping is a problem when you're climbing above a draw and the rope can unclip the gate with a fall. That's not gonna happen at an anchor. Furthermore, if you're leading a pitch and clip the anchors and your partner seconds on the other end of the rope, ALL the draws are going to be "back-clipped." Not an issue. Only an issue for protection bolts on lead.

It's not a safety issue in-of-itself because you're obviously going to be underneath the draws the whole time. I was just trying to figure out how he got the draws so twisted (as well as how they ended up not being opposite & opposed, assuming that was the original intent). If you clip the bolts opposite and opposed but back-clip one of the draws, it will twist in that exact same way and result in draws that are not opposite & opposed. Go ahead and try it. :)

There is an awesome article here all about equalizing gear, both on lead and at the anchor:
vdiff.co.uk/#!equalizing-ge…

VDiff wrote:There is an awesome article here all about equalizing gear, both on lead and at the anchor: vdiff.co.uk/#!equalizing-ge…

Your definition of awesome is clearly different to mine.

Jim Titt wrote: Your definition of awesome is clearly different to mine.

Apparently when the name of the poster is the same as the site he references, then by definition it must be awesome - 'cause he says so!

VDiff wrote:There is an awesome article here all about equalizing gear, both on lead and at the anchor: vdiff.co.uk/#!equalizing-ge…

The Lego peeps tying an alpine butterfly is awesome!

Marc801 wrote: Apparently when the name of the poster is the same as the site he references, then by definition it must be awesome - 'cause he says so!

Ha! Busted!!

YER GONNA DIE!!!!! honestly that's my favorite phrase to read here on MP. We're all gonna die, just some with more style than others. I sure don't wanna go out top roping a fucking sport climb!

I like it. Very shinny.

Did you ever climb at Spearfish? A lot of the anchors don't even have gates. Just hooks. Maybe because it is Spear"fish"Like this one. It looks safe enough for all the kids to top rope.
mountainproject.com/v/10706…

At least on this climb they hammer them all the way to the nuts
mountainproject.com/v/sewn-…

It really freaked out my climbing partner on this climb. (watch that leg Lorrizzo
)
mountainproject.com/v/10785…